Ghoulish Parisian Catacombs and Frolics in the Park

Our trip is winding down. But there are still a few things left to do in this beautiful city of lights.

A few historical things that is, as the delights of walking along the river, listening to music and eating fresh crepes could easily consume the rest of our time.

The big kids have heard about the famous Parisian catacombs and have talked their Daddy into taking them down there. As much as I love being around dead people, we decide to divide and conquer this one. I can only imagine the nightmares we'd be dealing with taking our little one's down there.

So off goes half the family to seek our the underworld of Paris and the girls and I do a bit of laundry and spend the morning playing in the little park in the Ile de la Cite, just behind Notre Dame. It's a precious time when you can sit in a beautiful park and watch the uninhibited joy of your children play. Sometimes you have to be completely out of your own environment to have this level of relaxation. I don't have any committee's to answer back to. I don't need to run to the bank or the grocery store. All the mundane little things are on hold (temporarily) and I can truly enjoy the roses. It's a gift, one that we don't embrace enough of. I wish there was a magic potion that could take you back to this simple peaceful place once in a while.



Meanwhile.... in a catacomb in the heart of Paris......

I'd say my three big kids (this includes my biggest kid) more than had their expectations met this morning, entering into the land of death. As in everything they do, the Parisians have created art out of death. Creating a fascinating, if macabre, cemetery under the city in the ancient mines that once would have produced the stone to build the beautiful buildings we see today.








By the end of the 17th century Paris had a real problem.

The cemeteries were full many times over, and the stink and putrefaction was causing disease, discomfort and death. Not to mention all sorts of malodorous fumes rising from the cemeteries that housed ten centuries worth of bodies! The crisis came to a head when the cellar of a respected Parisian collapsed in with the corpses of the nearby cemetery. So the Parisian government decided to  transform the old mines under the city into a mass cemetery.

Liana discovers the Wallace fountains

The bodies and bones of over six million souls were carefully exhumed, and artfully arranged in this mass grave. The skulls were arranged into symbols and figures while the rest of the bones made up the walls. The number of visitors is strictly limited to ensure the correct effect is had upon the visitor. Just enough somberness to make you reflect upon your own mortality, with a splash of the creepy, to keep the visitor numbers up. The catacombs were first visited as an "attraction" in the 1800's, and although I must say I would not be super keen to visit it myself, I think it was a real highlight for Randall, Liana and Liam.

Clara enjoys the cool grass on the Ile de la Cite

After their experience underground the family was reunited in the little park by Notre Dame where the little girls and I were still happily playing. We walked slowly up the Seine River to the other end of the Ile de la Cite. Along the way Liana was thrilled to discover one of the many Wallace fountains to be found sprinkled around the city. I mentioned them at the beginning of my blog, and so you can imagine dear reader, the little squeal of delight that Liana made as she recognized one of these little gems. During our walk we were to discover quite a few of them, including the larger water bottle filling fountains.

Thinking of Grandpa at his favorite spot on the end of the Ile de la Cite. We miss you Grandpa!

Before leaving the Ile de la Cite I have to make a small pilgrimage of my own.
When I was a little girl, we visited Paris several times, and every time we came my dad would insist on buying some baguette sandwiches and sitting on the very tip of the Ile de la Cite, where it juts out into the Seine River like a sharp point, and we'd hang our legs over the side and enjoy our food while Paris would drift or motor past us. It's something that he so enjoyed doing and took such delight in anticipating as well as reliving once we got home.
Today, it was a strongly emotional place for me,  I could feel the spirit of my parents in their happiest days still lingering on here. But then that is a lesson to be learned. The happy days come, and they are to be savored. We are all blessed with these days and we must make the most of them. And while I am pretty melancholy in my heart, I know it is because the wounds of their loss are still so fresh, I feel a sense of release that I can remember those happy days that they had together, and with me. And they were both people to savor their moments of happiness.

We walk slowly up to the Louvre Palace. It's a hot day and we are all a bit wilting. But we've come this far, so we decide to press on to observe the glass pyramid which fits so awkwardly into the center of the splendidly adorned Palace of the famous Louis' of the 18th century France. Liam has a bit of a tanty as he desperately wants to see the inside and all the famous artwork that the Louvre holds. "But Muuuuuum, the MONA LISA!!!" It must be one of the most famous museums in the world, and I must admit I do feel a bit bad that we are going to get this far and not actually go inside. But then, the Louvre is an enormous place, one that I am not prepared to do now. We've seen artwork and treasures galore on this trip, and to do the Louvre justice I feel that we should be fresh to truly experience it. And hey, it leaves them wanting more, which will make the next trip all that more easy to plan!

Crepe Heaven

With tired and hot little people surrounding us we tuck tail and head back to our little island, to visit our favorite creperie and enjoy each other's company at one of the local restaurants. Our trip is winding down, and I take a sunset walk alone along the river after the kids have all gone to sleep and enjoy the changing colors of the sky silhouetting Notre Dame. Someday Randall and I will be able to travel and not tag team, and be like so many other couples walking along hand in hand. But remembering the chubby little hand that held mine in the park earlier today I realize that I can be patient. For these are the good old days.....

Notre Dame de Paris and the beautiful River Seine

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of LIFE." Thomas Jefferson

Paris is one of a kind. Everyone knows it the world over.

Gargoyle!

Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in "A Moveable Feast". It has attracted the very rich, the very powerful, the very loved, the very poor and the very aspiring. It is more than a city, it is a lovely woman, whose soul still breathes in the city.

Enjoying our ride into Paris from Meaux after the morning traffic we soon finding our apartment on the Ile Saint-Louis. At the heart of Paris, the island is perfectly situated for us to explore the greater city, but still feel almost as if we are in a small village. I have booked us into a two bedroom apartment on the fourth story of an old noble house. (We're probably in the servants quarters, but who cares!) There are no lifts, just a long, long way up creaky wooden spiral stairs. Perfect way to wear out the excess sugar energy from the Creperie around the corner!

The apartment is just ideal! But no sooner do we settle in, than Liana is hounding us to go out again. We are so very, very close to her final pick of the trip:

Notre Dame Cathedral of Paris!

The interior of Notre Dame

As we cross over the foot bridge from our island to the Ils de la Cite, where Notre Dame sits, we start hitting the touristy crowds no surprise as it is one of the most iconic pieces of Gothic architecture in all of Europe. Started in 1163 and finished in 1345 it stands at the heart of Paris, and must be one of the most famous churches in the world. Flying buttresses (external braces) support the soaring nave, while gargoyles grin down at the unsuspecting tourists below. Kings have been crowned here, Monarchs married here, Saints have been canonize here (Joan of Arc for one!) and even an Emperor was crowned here, Napoleon of course. So very much history to pass through one church.

My big girl contemplates faith

Inside we mull around with the masses of tourists, but are not disappointed. The three giant Rose Windows are a highlight for Liana and myself for sure. Giant round stained glass windows that pay homage to Christianity filter unearthly light into the giant interior, making you look up, as if to heaven, for inspiration. For a world that was supposedly steeped in the "Dark Ages" they were able to create something that is universally uplifting, even to a new age girl like me living in the 21st century. That doesn't seem too "dark" to me....

Paris by river

Liam's dream destination

The square outside is crowded so we huff off on a bit of a hike around, entering several other beautiful churches, before returning to the river Seine for riverboat tour of Paris. It seems a bit touristy, but we have little hot feet, and all of old Paris is along the river anyway, so why not? Sometimes it's good to be a tourist!

The city unfolds around us as we pass under bridge after bridge. Paris has over 30 bridges over the Seine and the variety is beautiful. From the ornate and gaudy Pont Alexandre III (a gift from the Tsar of  Russia) down to the Pont Neuf, or bridge nine, the oldest bridge in Paris, dating back to the late 1500's and the time of Henry IV, whose statue stands looking over the bridge. Some bridges are covered in locks and lockets which are left by lovers who hope that by locking their love to the bridges in Paris it will cement their bond for all eternity.

Up, up, up we go!

After all the touring around Randall took the girls back to our apartment for a late afternoon siesta, while Liam and I took the chance to fulfill one of his dreams - climb the Iron Lady of Paris.... The Eiffel Tower.

Built as the entrance arch to the 1889 World Fair, the giant lattice work frame has become an iconic feature of the Parisian vista. Although not always beloved of the Parisians it has continued to wow visitors for years.

Looking down at the queue for the elevators to the top!

To the top by stairs, we both say! As we race up the stairs together we look down and laugh at the long line of tourists waiting nearly two hours to take the elevator! How lucky we are to have the use of our legs, and if feels good to be going up at a fast pace. While the little girls are troopers when it comes to traveling, little legs can only go so fast.

At the top!

Even if it is the most visited paid attraction in the world, with over 220 million having visited it, the   view from the top is worth the trek. All of Paris is at our feet, and it is beautiful. And of course we have to take a picture of the sign that points out to us that Aotearoa, our home, is 18,542 kilometers away! That will be a long plane flight home...

Food shopping on the Ile St Louis

Back on the Ile Saint-Louis, I make my way around the little local stores to collect what we will need for breakfast. It's one of the many things Parisians have gotten right. They still keep it simple. Fresh baked bread from the bakery, cheese from the cheese maker. Forget the big chain, mass produced stuff. Quality of life is important, and quality of food directly leads to a good quality of life....

So many lovers have left locks on the bridge to seal their love...

Notre Dame de Paris, with a lock covered bridge

It's been a fun day in the city of lights. We have more time to explore it and I am so looking forward to it!





Bon Nuit from Paris.

Meaux and the Wonderful World of Euro Disney

God bless the creator of the nav sat direction system.

Looking at the Beautiful Meaux Cathedral from our hotel, across the river Seine

I'm sure it has saved many marriages!

It probably saved ours this day.

Driving a stick shift minivan through a medieval town, with sparse directions, across the biggest city in France (Paris) to another medieval town would be a challenge on any normal day. And a bicker-fest between the driver and navigator for sure! But thank goodness for Jill, the friendly English voice coming out of the navigational system that calmly guided us through all the obstacles and deposited us to our friends house in just the time it calculated for us. Best 20 Euro we spent the whole trip!

The last of the Chem trails over Meaux

Chem Trails

We are on our way to visit my childhood friend Erik and his lovely family. Erik, who was our next door neighbor and like a son to my parents, now lives in the little town of Meaux, on the outskirts of Paris, with his wife and two boys. It's been a decade since we've caught up in person, so it is long over due! (Do I even need to mention how excited Liam is to have some boys to play with!)

We have a wonderful afternoon and evening catching up on old times and new times, coming to grips with the loss of my parents and of course eating amazing food.

But one thing puzzled me. Above us in the lovely clear blue sky you can't help but notice a striking pattern forming from the air traffic above. It's the first I've heard about Chem Trails vs Con Trails. No one is quite sure what it is, whether it is some form of seeding for rain, or attempts to halt global warming, or possibly something more sinister. But it is certainly not the average airplane trails producing grids like this. I'd be interested to hear if anyone out there knows more about these Chem Trails?

The next day is the day the kids have been so excited about - Euro Disney! And it's made even more special by the fact that the Falvey family is going to join us! Yahoo!

What can you say? The happiest place on Earth - only we are in France. They've done a remarkably good job of recreating the original without completely copying it. The haunted mansion is the Phantom Manor and Sleeping Beauty's castle has a huge dragon underneath it. Oui! It was a wonderful day of sunshine, friends, princesses, roller coasters and crepes.

Juliet has adopted Erik and Muriel

Ahoy Matey

Thick as Thieves

Exhausted and happy we return to Erik and Muriel's house for dinner.

Just as we are parking our tire explodes. (Literally!)
Luckily we are with Friends. Muriel (god bless her) spends an hour on the phone wrangling with the rental car company, and when we do finally get someone out to fix the tire they discover the spare tire is flat as well! Figures. At least it's consistent. Another round of phone calls ensues. But Alas, the rental company cannot be stuffed finding us another car so they offer to pay for a shuttle into Paris the next day. It looks like our journey to Paris central tomorrow will be easier than planned. And everyone is looking forward to exploring this next amazing city - and last European city - of our trip....

Crashed out on the couch

Rouen - Joan of Arc and the discovery of Nutella Crepes

The Idyllic Backyard of our B&B

What can you say? Rouen is a specacular example of medieval township.

It's a catch up day for us. Laundry. Repacking. Orgainizing a car for our next leg of the journey. (We are seriously over trains at this point and would rather drive!!!)

Liam learns to whittle

The day starts as idyllically as the day before. Our early morning bird friends chirp us awake at five, then we nestle in for another few hours of blissful sleep before awaking to a divine breakfast. Our kids up and dressed and playing in the fairytale garden ahead of us.

Breakfast inside in the art studio this morning. Amazing food!

Downtown Rouen

To work off the pastries and custard of breakfast we decide to hike into the downtown of Rouen for lunch. (How do French women stay slim?) As we are staying in Mont St Aignan on the northern edge of the town its all down hill. The kids are pleased with that. After all these weeks of traveling they have become seasoned walkers, and even I am beginning to relax a bit now that I know that they can be trusted to be sensible when it comes to traffic and staying together. You just don't know how the family dynamics are going to go until you've done it. I'm proud of our tribe for settling in to travel mode so flawlessly.









But back to Rouen!

Rouen was once the most prosperous of medieval cities. And with its position straddling the Seine River and surrounded by fertile planes it has had a long history. Begun in Roman times (but not by the Romans) the city has had so many changes of hands it makes the head spin.
There were the Vikings who devastated the area, and most parts of Europe in the 800's ad. Later Rouen became the capital of the Dukes of Normandy until William the Conqueror moved the capital to be closer to his English holdings. Then it was annexed to the French Kingdom, before the start of the very bloody hundred years war (between England and France over the possession of these lands) in the 1300's. In the 1500's there was the War of Religion that polarized the population. There were terror tactics used on both sides - both Calvanists and Catholics - with many a senseless massacre committed "in the name of god". What a terrifying time to live in. Both sides ready to die and kill for their own version of the same religion. I suppose looking back you tend to look through the filter of time and attempt to pass judgement, but alas, it is hard for me to fathom this bloody era in European history.

One of the many lovely shops in downtown Rouen

After much too-ing and fro-ing, Rouen ended up in French (catholic) rule and stayed that way with brief interludes of Prussian and German occupations during the Franco Prussian war and WWII....

So, that is a history of Rouen in one paragraph. I'm sure there is much that I left out, so much to expand upon, but this isn't the place. I wish I knew a bit more of the positive history so as not to bring light to the negative. But the happy days of farming and afternoon picnics with your family hardly ever make the history books, despite the fact that on the whole the days of happiness out weigh the days of gloom.

As we walk past the ancient Cathedral and through the foot-traffic-only streets the little we know about the town explains some of the buildings that we see, and the feel of staunchness that the town exudes. It has been through a whole lot! There are many half timbered houses that still remain in the city which make you feel as though you have been transported back in time. Buildings that are still standing, looking over squares that would once have been grassy and had peasants carrying their wares and nobles riding horses. If only walls could talk. Well, we may not wish to hear all that they would say!

We buy some baguette sandwiches and a couple fizzy drinks and eat in the lovely wide square - Place du Vieux Marche. There are old taverns and a museum to Joan of Arc. After shopping our way around the square and buying some fresh produce for later snacks we decide to check out the Joan of Arc museum.

While Joan of Arc was not born here, this is where she ended her short life. In fact the same square that we so recently had our lovely picnic was the spot that she was burned alive as a heretic in 1431 - at the age of 19.

Inside the wax museum of Joan of Arc - here she is hearing voices from the saints that instruct her in her mission to save France from the English invaders. She went on to defeat the English army in battle, but was later burned for claiming to hear voices.

I've always had a morbid fascination of the "Maid of Orlean" and the museum turned out to be just the place to spend a hot afternoon. It was a wax museum that portrayed her life in various scenes - from the time as a poor illiterate child when she started hearing voices telling her to take charge of France's armies, to her many victorious battles against the English, to her betrayal and eventual burning at the stake by the English. Who knows how much of her story was factual, and how much was used as medieval propaganda in a war that lasted 100 years between the English and the French. But we do know there was a young girl named Joan who lead the armies of the Dauphin of France in a successful military campaign that kickstarted the return of the French to power in the region. The fact that she was just a young girl and one who died for her belief in her visions had the power to capture the minds of the great playwrights and artists - Shakespeare, Voltaire, Mark Twain, Tchaikovsky, George Bernard Shaw to name a few. So if a few embellishments were made along the way, well, who's to say that the modern era has a monopoly on propaganda?

Liam checks out the image of the burning of Joan of Arc

The kids took it all in and as we all emerged from the dark, cool museum blinking in the afternoon heat there were many questions about medieval times and the ideas of religion so strong that one is willing to be burned alive for it. It's a concept that our modern lives don't come across in day to day life. The fact that our ancestors would have believed it and been a part of that type of system is an eye opener. We can applaud just how much progress has been made in the last 500 years.

As we walked out of the square, all but smelling the smoke from the people who burned in the Place du Vieux Marche all those years ago we passed by a small cart selling crepes. And the discovery of the Nutella Crepe happened. Forget history. This made the kid's whole day, week, month, trip.... (well, at least since the last gelato in Italy that is!) Imagine a fresh crepe cooked on a hot plate in front of you, smothered in rich Nutella, rolled up and voila. You eat it as you walk. Smiles galore.

Not a complaint to be had on the walk home, just happy chompers savoring another discovered delight of foreign cuisine. Even when we had to wait at the train station for an hour until the rental car company opened up. The key to happy family traveling is full stomachs - well, in part at least. :)

The look of Bliss when Liana tucks into a desert Crepe!

That night we have a farewell dinner with our lovely friends at another Creperie. Appetizers, main course and desert, all different types of crepes. I love FRANCE!
A wonderful ending to our sojourn in Normandy. Tomorrow we drive from Rouen to the other side of Paris, to visit our friends who live in the not-so-touristy town of Meaux. But first we have to navigate our way there! It should be an adventure!

Goodbye to our wonderful friends, Roland and Francois! You hold a dear place in our hearts. 

A Tootle Around Normandy

What better way to awaken than with the birds!

Quite literally in our case. Our cozy little room on the third floor of the old Norman house that we are staying in is covered in vines. And as the sun rose so did our fine feathered neighbors who chirped away about the beauty of the new day. Randall and I snuggled back under the duvet with smiles on our faces and went back to sleep for another couple hours. (The sunrise is about 5am.)

When we do pull ourselves out of bed the birds are all off about their business and the lovely lady who runs the b&b has breakfast laid out on the patio. Looking down from our window there is a happy little red head singing away waiting for us to join her. Clara has always been our morning girl!









After eating the amazing home made pastries, fresh fruit, yogurt and coffee we are off again to take a tour of the region with our hosts. The day is brilliant. Blue skies and perfect pastoral vistas.

Inside St. George of Boscherville Abbey

We visit several abbeys along the way.

St. George of Boscherville Abbey- a perfect example of Norman workmanship. Light and airy, with beautiful gardens overlooking the Seine Valley; it sets the soul to the devine. Started in the 1200's it stands still as one of the finest Romanesque churches in Normandy.

What is left of the learning center that was Jumiege Abbeye

Then there was Jumiege Abbeye - or what remains of it. The abbey's history runs back to the 600's when it was a center of learning and had 1000 monks living and praying within it's walls. It sustained a high profile in the realm of the spirituality and being the model for all other abbeys of the area for many a century. But not everything lasts. It suffered with the invasion of the English. And the war of religion and the Huguenots. Until it was finally burned and sacked during the French revolution. The shell of the monastery still remains for all to see. Still inspiring thoughts of god, despite the derelict nature of it's remnants.

We had the perfect picnic in the forests above the Abbey of St Wandrille. The kids were as pleased as could be, and again the food was sublime. Francoise taught the girls how to whistle using a blade of grass and the boys explored the rich woods. Meanwhile I stuffed myself with the fresh bread and amazing dressing Francois has supplied us with. So like me.

The Abbey of St. Wandrille is a wonderful mixture of ruined Norman Abbey, current monastery and of wooden church. Again started in the 600's the church was sacked and ruined and rebuilt many times over the years. We were very quiet while walking through the grounds as this is still a working monastery with many monks taking a vow of silence.
Going past the ruins of the giant stone monastery that was sacked during the French revolution, you come across two smaller chapels made of wood. This comes from the ancient days when the buildings were put together using only the wood - metal was a precious commodity. In fact one of these buildings was once a royal stable and was dismantled and brought across part of Normandy by the monks to become their new chapel and it is still here today. Pretty clever, I'll say! Lucky for us one of the monks was practicing his organ playing and the entire chapel reverberated with the haunting strains of the organ. Clara took the time to pray and Juliet felt the need to dance. It is humbling to be in the presence of such faith.

inside the all wood chapel of St. Wadrille

On the grounds of the Abbey of St. Wandrille

Ruined Abbey of St. Wandrille

Everything is idyllic, but with all the contentedness I feel I am still searching for what makes Normandy different; a place all its own.
You cannot help but feel the contrast here from the other places we've traveled in, however I can't quite put my finger on it. It's peaceful — in a watchful sort of way. Probably because there has been such strife here. Armies and leaders - coming and going. But the land is still restful despite the blood spilled here. Maybe it's a good testament to the common people. Life goes on, despite the crazy politics of any time...

We end our day in a tiny resort town called Veules-les-Roses, on the French coast facing onto the English channel. It is resort village and as we walk past the ancient water wheels it feels so restful. Many of the buildings are built in the traditional way with thatched roofs. Oh so very, very charming. The kids run ferrel on the grassy hillside and we end up on the stony beach to have a cup of tea before heading back into Rouen.

Thatched roofs in the town of Veules-les-Roses

The whole idyl was marred only slightly by Juliet throwing a stone and very nearly blinding Clara (on accident of course). A bloody towel later Clara's fine, with only a gashed eyebrow to show for Mum and Dad's shattered nerves. Thank goodness we don't have to decamp to the hospital. Ahhh, the joys of traveling with kids.

On the beach of Veules-les-Roses

What a lovely part of the world, with lots and lots of history. It has a very permanent feel to it, but not old fashioned. So much life has happened here that it just seems right that life will always continue here. I'm so glad we had the chance to enjoy it with our lovely host family.

And to enjoy another night in our bird house perch. I can't wait to go to bed so that I can wake up with the birds again!

Bon nuit mes amies!