Friday 4 July 2014

Peace Pagodas in Pokhara

Nepal trip day 11 - Pokhara

Not much rain last night so we wake up to a whole lot of haze and humidity. The monsoon will be here in about two months and this is the pre build up. Boy, it sure is hot and muggy!

After gorging on a thoroughly western breakfast with all the other expats at the hotel we head out onto the streets of Pokhara again. Even the water buffalos seem to be feeling the heat as they sit staring at us from the middle of the road. Bored with the shopping we decide to rent a little boat and head out onto the lake. 

Fewa lake, pretty from a distance, is a dirty lake. Surrounded by a dirty city you can't be too surprised. The people don't seem to get the concept of rubbish and pollution, like the concept of non biodegradable materials hasn't entered the lexicon of their understanding yet. Hence the lake with floating plastic bags, bottles and other various detritus that the recent rains have washed into it. If you can look past the rubbish the setting is really stunning. The hills are covered in greenery, with birds and monkeys scampering around. If it weren't for the heat haze the splendours of the Annapurna range would be crowing the distance, giving the lake a world class rating. It is truly a beautiful setting, but it is really upsetting to see an environment so uselessly trashed.



We rowed past a little island filled with people ringing bells and enjoying a little Hindu temple. We aim for the bank across the river where a little pathway leads to the peace pagoda at the top of the mountain.

On another boat near us in the lake there is a Chinese couple, beautifully dressed in formal wear and being followed by a boat full of men with cameras. Chinese paparazzi, a photo shoot or a wedding party trying to get just the right shot? They seem so out of place in their formal wear and heavy make up floating around in the lake!



It's a long, sweaty, hot, sticky hike. Somehow harder than Poon hill, probably because of the heat! No, not probably, definitely. The trail is mainly stone steps and winds it's way up the hill, past small temples and and around houses. A few children come out and quietly ask for chocolate, whispering it so their mother doesn't hear them. It shows how many outsiders hike this trail. The well meaning tourists have taught these children's the delights of the western sugary ways, but without the knowledge of dental hygiene, the introduction of sugar is a real problem. Those beautiful white teeth won't stay white for long. Like most things in this world it's about education. Education of the local people, but also education of the tourists. It may seem like a nice thing to do, come to a country and hand out sweets to the cute little kids, but if you stop to think about it, the act really only brings destruction and is device to the culture that you are visiting.

Finally, red faced and sweating, we make it to the top. The peace pagoda is a Buddhist Stuppa and is dedicated to bringing together all the peoples of the world, regardless of their religion, to focus on the search for world peace. All four sides of the tall Stuppa has a story of the Buddha's life, each with a different cultures' take on it. It's a beautiful sentiment and the location is stunning. This far above the lake you don't see the floating plastic and it appears like an emerald below us. During the non monsoon time you would see the peaks of the Annapurna in the distance behind it. I can see why it is so highly rated!



After consuming several bottles of water was hike back down and row across the lake again. Heading back to our hotel to cool ourselves in the pool and repack our newly laundered clothes. 

We spend the evening in a local pub called the Maya. Premier league soccer plays in the background and the kids learn to play snooker with a local (drunk) expat and we enjoy some last western food. Tomorrow we fly back to Kathmandu and from there begin our First Steps Himalaya adventure into the Nepali educational system. We will be driving nearly to the Tibetan border and living with a family while visiting and helping out in the First Steps Himalaya school projects. l am so excited for it, and ready to immerse  ourselves back into the real Nepal.

With thunder in the skies it's our last night with Western luxuries for awhile. I take two showers just because I can!!

Namaste!




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