Fondue, Phantoms and Farewell to Europe!

This trip has been, in a way, a pilgrimage for me. With the death of so many of my loved ones so close together at the beginning of the year I needed this time to journey and reconnect with myself, with my family, with my husband and with the world abroad. To confront my past with memories from places shared with my young self, and to share it in the way I choose with my own future; my children. To watch each of my kids take something different from it, and know that I am able to allow them the freedom to choose their own path whether it is what I would have picked or not has been the affirmation I needed. Liam and his architecture, Clara and her devout religious side, Juliet's love of people and Liana's reconnection with our French families have all come across loud and clear. What a marvelous experience it has been - sickness, stolen train tickets, tantrums and all!

And today is our last day - apart from a layover in Malaysia. It's amazing how much stuff we managed to acquire from our trip. My careful packing from the start of the trip has expanded to an overload of stuff. Six suitcases all packed up, with overflowing backpacks and plastic bags of nicknacks and souvenirs galore. Oh dear. I guess at the end of almost two months it would have been hard not to accumulate so much stuff.... Now all I can think of is how are we going to get it down the stairs tomorrow!

After two months on the road and constantly changing cities, hotels and countries I must admit that I am looking forward to a few things, like cuddling with my cat and my own fluffy bed. And as the rabbit of the family I am looking forward to eating nothing but salads for a whole week! But today is for enjoying the last of the amazing cuisine that Paris has to offer. After a sweaty morning of stuffing suitcases we treat ourselves to a cheese fondue lunch in the Latin Quarter. Mmmmmm...

A salad started us off and then come the cheesy, gooey carbs. Iron pots with melted cheese and long skewers to dip the bread, mushrooms, potatoes and other starchy goodness into. Oh my, time for a walk to burn it off as best we can.

First up, walking through the lovely latin quarter with it's interesting shops and book stores. Randall and Clara finally find a book store that has a small English bible. (They have been on this quest since they visited St. Katharine's monastery in the Sinai peninsula!) Her love of religion has flourished on this trip and it's important to feed the dreams before they whither on the vine, so to speak. So, karma steps in and delivers us to a Canadian book store that has just about every book under the sun. A beaming Clara finds her mini sized bible and Liam discovers a latin/english phrase book, as his new goal is to learn to read latin. Ah, the things that spark the mind while you are traveling.

So with the purchases wrapped up in a little bag we follow the Seine to a metro station. The kids have begged us to check it out at least once, so here we go! Once you get the hang of changing stations it makes for a very efficient way to cross a big city with little fuss. Although, just buying the single tickets I thought it was overpriced. But hey, it's all in the experience.

Destination: Palais Garnier! Otherwise known as the Paris Opera House - which is one of the many resplendent symbols of Paris, especially if you've ever fallen under the Phantom's spell....

Some say it's gaudy, some say it's a reflection of the perfection of opera, and then there are some who walk by and don't look up from their iphone to notice the grand building that has featured in so many movies.

Enjoying the cool marble

Interior Palais Garnier

Now, you must have gathered this far into the story that I love my history, and architecture can be a wonderful tool, a sort of barometer of the feelings of the day. Think stark, gray cement block buildings from the cold war era, or the Colosseum as standing testament to the might that Rome represented at its bread and circus' heyday.

So here we stand in front of a building dripping with gold and ornate statuary depicting all the famous composers of the western musical world. I have to say I am not very familiar with this time period in France. It would be the time of Napoleon III, who was both the first president of France as well the last monarch. (And in that order!) It was a time of restoration and putting France back on the map after the wars with Napoleon the first diminished the country in the eyes of the world. Under Napoleon III most of modern Paris was rebuilt and the city gets it's prosperous and well planned look from this rebuilding. The people of the time would have felt proud and happy to have their dark days behind them and looking forward to the future.

Charles Garnier, architect of the building

So here we are. The kids are all ready for the interior tour. They've heard the sound track from Andrew Lloyd Webber's "Phantom", and know the storyline. Did you know that the real chandelier did partially fall into the audience in the 1890's and killed one person, so even that part of the play has some base in history. Someday I would like to come properly, all fancied up with a spot of champaign in my hand and listen to one of my favorite opera's here. But for the time being I'm happy to be coming in the mid afternoon with the family and exploring the golden splendor that permeates every room of the Palais Garnier.

The view down the Avenue De L'Opera from the opera house balcony

We manage to escape the opera and ballet store that we had to exit through, not as easy as it looks with a budding Opera Diva (Clara) who has vowed to someday sing on stage here, and a prima ballerina (Juliet) who dances everywhere she goes. But seriously, the prices were beyond outrageous! Bribery usually works well in these circumstances, especially in the way of the cookie store across the street.

But we are heading back home, via the Jardin Des Tuileries, so the munchkins can blow off some kid-like steam - as only kids can do. A good game of chase can blow any cobwebs away, especially when you can jump in and out of perfectly trimmed Parisian hedgerows. The fits and giggles make the heart happy! And the pictures will make us all laugh for years to come.

And with all the cooties run out of the legs we make our way past more Wallace Fountains (where we must stop and drink) and along the quant little book stalls that line the River Seine. The kids INSIST that we pick up a lock so that we can be like all the other lovers who have cemented their love with a padlock chained to the bridge. So for 1 Euro we are all happy. Liana proudly takes the picture while we lock it on. Not that we are worried about our relationship, but the kids just love all the pomp and circumstance!

Mum and Dad cement their love with a lock, courtesy of the kids :)

late afternoon nap, all this sightseeing is tiring work!

Back at the apartment the girls nap out while we pack the remaining souvenirs (more!) into our back packs and then head out for one last evening of decadent food. Our family has invited us to celebrate their Friday night with a cheese feast. I think Liana has died and gone to heaven. At least I will know why she moves to France to become a chef in a few years time! It's a lovely and late evening with all of our children (they have two boys) having a grand old time, playing music and performing magic tricks for each other while us adults can discuss the cares of the world and the differences and similarities in lives on opposite sides of the globe. A perfect way to end the day, and the trip.

In the taxi home that night I look out at a sleeping Paris and reflect back on our trip. We've all gotten things out of it. Different aspects to take away. Traveling has always been a true love for both myself and Randall and it feels elementally right to share it with the children. They are kindred spirits when it comes to the road.

I was once asked what animal I would most identify with, and I answered completely spontaneously "a great sea bird, like an albatross"... Only now do I realize how true that is for me. I love the openness and freedom of life on the road. To weather a few storms and enjoy the rainbows and sunsets. But I also have a great need for a rookery where I can raise my young, enjoy a stable and steady life and take time to reflect on the journeys that have been and are yet to come.

Taxi ride

I may not pray to the same god as my daughter but I know that the divinity of the universe is smiling down.

Blessed be.

Ghoulish Parisian Catacombs and Frolics in the Park

Our trip is winding down. But there are still a few things left to do in this beautiful city of lights.

A few historical things that is, as the delights of walking along the river, listening to music and eating fresh crepes could easily consume the rest of our time.

The big kids have heard about the famous Parisian catacombs and have talked their Daddy into taking them down there. As much as I love being around dead people, we decide to divide and conquer this one. I can only imagine the nightmares we'd be dealing with taking our little one's down there.

So off goes half the family to seek our the underworld of Paris and the girls and I do a bit of laundry and spend the morning playing in the little park in the Ile de la Cite, just behind Notre Dame. It's a precious time when you can sit in a beautiful park and watch the uninhibited joy of your children play. Sometimes you have to be completely out of your own environment to have this level of relaxation. I don't have any committee's to answer back to. I don't need to run to the bank or the grocery store. All the mundane little things are on hold (temporarily) and I can truly enjoy the roses. It's a gift, one that we don't embrace enough of. I wish there was a magic potion that could take you back to this simple peaceful place once in a while.



Meanwhile.... in a catacomb in the heart of Paris......

I'd say my three big kids (this includes my biggest kid) more than had their expectations met this morning, entering into the land of death. As in everything they do, the Parisians have created art out of death. Creating a fascinating, if macabre, cemetery under the city in the ancient mines that once would have produced the stone to build the beautiful buildings we see today.








By the end of the 17th century Paris had a real problem.

The cemeteries were full many times over, and the stink and putrefaction was causing disease, discomfort and death. Not to mention all sorts of malodorous fumes rising from the cemeteries that housed ten centuries worth of bodies! The crisis came to a head when the cellar of a respected Parisian collapsed in with the corpses of the nearby cemetery. So the Parisian government decided to  transform the old mines under the city into a mass cemetery.

Liana discovers the Wallace fountains

The bodies and bones of over six million souls were carefully exhumed, and artfully arranged in this mass grave. The skulls were arranged into symbols and figures while the rest of the bones made up the walls. The number of visitors is strictly limited to ensure the correct effect is had upon the visitor. Just enough somberness to make you reflect upon your own mortality, with a splash of the creepy, to keep the visitor numbers up. The catacombs were first visited as an "attraction" in the 1800's, and although I must say I would not be super keen to visit it myself, I think it was a real highlight for Randall, Liana and Liam.

Clara enjoys the cool grass on the Ile de la Cite

After their experience underground the family was reunited in the little park by Notre Dame where the little girls and I were still happily playing. We walked slowly up the Seine River to the other end of the Ile de la Cite. Along the way Liana was thrilled to discover one of the many Wallace fountains to be found sprinkled around the city. I mentioned them at the beginning of my blog, and so you can imagine dear reader, the little squeal of delight that Liana made as she recognized one of these little gems. During our walk we were to discover quite a few of them, including the larger water bottle filling fountains.

Thinking of Grandpa at his favorite spot on the end of the Ile de la Cite. We miss you Grandpa!

Before leaving the Ile de la Cite I have to make a small pilgrimage of my own.
When I was a little girl, we visited Paris several times, and every time we came my dad would insist on buying some baguette sandwiches and sitting on the very tip of the Ile de la Cite, where it juts out into the Seine River like a sharp point, and we'd hang our legs over the side and enjoy our food while Paris would drift or motor past us. It's something that he so enjoyed doing and took such delight in anticipating as well as reliving once we got home.
Today, it was a strongly emotional place for me,  I could feel the spirit of my parents in their happiest days still lingering on here. But then that is a lesson to be learned. The happy days come, and they are to be savored. We are all blessed with these days and we must make the most of them. And while I am pretty melancholy in my heart, I know it is because the wounds of their loss are still so fresh, I feel a sense of release that I can remember those happy days that they had together, and with me. And they were both people to savor their moments of happiness.

We walk slowly up to the Louvre Palace. It's a hot day and we are all a bit wilting. But we've come this far, so we decide to press on to observe the glass pyramid which fits so awkwardly into the center of the splendidly adorned Palace of the famous Louis' of the 18th century France. Liam has a bit of a tanty as he desperately wants to see the inside and all the famous artwork that the Louvre holds. "But Muuuuuum, the MONA LISA!!!" It must be one of the most famous museums in the world, and I must admit I do feel a bit bad that we are going to get this far and not actually go inside. But then, the Louvre is an enormous place, one that I am not prepared to do now. We've seen artwork and treasures galore on this trip, and to do the Louvre justice I feel that we should be fresh to truly experience it. And hey, it leaves them wanting more, which will make the next trip all that more easy to plan!

Crepe Heaven

With tired and hot little people surrounding us we tuck tail and head back to our little island, to visit our favorite creperie and enjoy each other's company at one of the local restaurants. Our trip is winding down, and I take a sunset walk alone along the river after the kids have all gone to sleep and enjoy the changing colors of the sky silhouetting Notre Dame. Someday Randall and I will be able to travel and not tag team, and be like so many other couples walking along hand in hand. But remembering the chubby little hand that held mine in the park earlier today I realize that I can be patient. For these are the good old days.....

Notre Dame de Paris and the beautiful River Seine

"A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty, and in the point of LIFE." Thomas Jefferson

Paris is one of a kind. Everyone knows it the world over.

Gargoyle!

Ernest Hemingway wrote of it in "A Moveable Feast". It has attracted the very rich, the very powerful, the very loved, the very poor and the very aspiring. It is more than a city, it is a lovely woman, whose soul still breathes in the city.

Enjoying our ride into Paris from Meaux after the morning traffic we soon finding our apartment on the Ile Saint-Louis. At the heart of Paris, the island is perfectly situated for us to explore the greater city, but still feel almost as if we are in a small village. I have booked us into a two bedroom apartment on the fourth story of an old noble house. (We're probably in the servants quarters, but who cares!) There are no lifts, just a long, long way up creaky wooden spiral stairs. Perfect way to wear out the excess sugar energy from the Creperie around the corner!

The apartment is just ideal! But no sooner do we settle in, than Liana is hounding us to go out again. We are so very, very close to her final pick of the trip:

Notre Dame Cathedral of Paris!

The interior of Notre Dame

As we cross over the foot bridge from our island to the Ils de la Cite, where Notre Dame sits, we start hitting the touristy crowds no surprise as it is one of the most iconic pieces of Gothic architecture in all of Europe. Started in 1163 and finished in 1345 it stands at the heart of Paris, and must be one of the most famous churches in the world. Flying buttresses (external braces) support the soaring nave, while gargoyles grin down at the unsuspecting tourists below. Kings have been crowned here, Monarchs married here, Saints have been canonize here (Joan of Arc for one!) and even an Emperor was crowned here, Napoleon of course. So very much history to pass through one church.

My big girl contemplates faith

Inside we mull around with the masses of tourists, but are not disappointed. The three giant Rose Windows are a highlight for Liana and myself for sure. Giant round stained glass windows that pay homage to Christianity filter unearthly light into the giant interior, making you look up, as if to heaven, for inspiration. For a world that was supposedly steeped in the "Dark Ages" they were able to create something that is universally uplifting, even to a new age girl like me living in the 21st century. That doesn't seem too "dark" to me....

Paris by river

Liam's dream destination

The square outside is crowded so we huff off on a bit of a hike around, entering several other beautiful churches, before returning to the river Seine for riverboat tour of Paris. It seems a bit touristy, but we have little hot feet, and all of old Paris is along the river anyway, so why not? Sometimes it's good to be a tourist!

The city unfolds around us as we pass under bridge after bridge. Paris has over 30 bridges over the Seine and the variety is beautiful. From the ornate and gaudy Pont Alexandre III (a gift from the Tsar of  Russia) down to the Pont Neuf, or bridge nine, the oldest bridge in Paris, dating back to the late 1500's and the time of Henry IV, whose statue stands looking over the bridge. Some bridges are covered in locks and lockets which are left by lovers who hope that by locking their love to the bridges in Paris it will cement their bond for all eternity.

Up, up, up we go!

After all the touring around Randall took the girls back to our apartment for a late afternoon siesta, while Liam and I took the chance to fulfill one of his dreams - climb the Iron Lady of Paris.... The Eiffel Tower.

Built as the entrance arch to the 1889 World Fair, the giant lattice work frame has become an iconic feature of the Parisian vista. Although not always beloved of the Parisians it has continued to wow visitors for years.

Looking down at the queue for the elevators to the top!

To the top by stairs, we both say! As we race up the stairs together we look down and laugh at the long line of tourists waiting nearly two hours to take the elevator! How lucky we are to have the use of our legs, and if feels good to be going up at a fast pace. While the little girls are troopers when it comes to traveling, little legs can only go so fast.

At the top!

Even if it is the most visited paid attraction in the world, with over 220 million having visited it, the   view from the top is worth the trek. All of Paris is at our feet, and it is beautiful. And of course we have to take a picture of the sign that points out to us that Aotearoa, our home, is 18,542 kilometers away! That will be a long plane flight home...

Food shopping on the Ile St Louis

Back on the Ile Saint-Louis, I make my way around the little local stores to collect what we will need for breakfast. It's one of the many things Parisians have gotten right. They still keep it simple. Fresh baked bread from the bakery, cheese from the cheese maker. Forget the big chain, mass produced stuff. Quality of life is important, and quality of food directly leads to a good quality of life....

So many lovers have left locks on the bridge to seal their love...

Notre Dame de Paris, with a lock covered bridge

It's been a fun day in the city of lights. We have more time to explore it and I am so looking forward to it!





Bon Nuit from Paris.

Meaux and the Wonderful World of Euro Disney

God bless the creator of the nav sat direction system.

Looking at the Beautiful Meaux Cathedral from our hotel, across the river Seine

I'm sure it has saved many marriages!

It probably saved ours this day.

Driving a stick shift minivan through a medieval town, with sparse directions, across the biggest city in France (Paris) to another medieval town would be a challenge on any normal day. And a bicker-fest between the driver and navigator for sure! But thank goodness for Jill, the friendly English voice coming out of the navigational system that calmly guided us through all the obstacles and deposited us to our friends house in just the time it calculated for us. Best 20 Euro we spent the whole trip!

The last of the Chem trails over Meaux

Chem Trails

We are on our way to visit my childhood friend Erik and his lovely family. Erik, who was our next door neighbor and like a son to my parents, now lives in the little town of Meaux, on the outskirts of Paris, with his wife and two boys. It's been a decade since we've caught up in person, so it is long over due! (Do I even need to mention how excited Liam is to have some boys to play with!)

We have a wonderful afternoon and evening catching up on old times and new times, coming to grips with the loss of my parents and of course eating amazing food.

But one thing puzzled me. Above us in the lovely clear blue sky you can't help but notice a striking pattern forming from the air traffic above. It's the first I've heard about Chem Trails vs Con Trails. No one is quite sure what it is, whether it is some form of seeding for rain, or attempts to halt global warming, or possibly something more sinister. But it is certainly not the average airplane trails producing grids like this. I'd be interested to hear if anyone out there knows more about these Chem Trails?

The next day is the day the kids have been so excited about - Euro Disney! And it's made even more special by the fact that the Falvey family is going to join us! Yahoo!

What can you say? The happiest place on Earth - only we are in France. They've done a remarkably good job of recreating the original without completely copying it. The haunted mansion is the Phantom Manor and Sleeping Beauty's castle has a huge dragon underneath it. Oui! It was a wonderful day of sunshine, friends, princesses, roller coasters and crepes.

Juliet has adopted Erik and Muriel

Ahoy Matey

Thick as Thieves

Exhausted and happy we return to Erik and Muriel's house for dinner.

Just as we are parking our tire explodes. (Literally!)
Luckily we are with Friends. Muriel (god bless her) spends an hour on the phone wrangling with the rental car company, and when we do finally get someone out to fix the tire they discover the spare tire is flat as well! Figures. At least it's consistent. Another round of phone calls ensues. But Alas, the rental company cannot be stuffed finding us another car so they offer to pay for a shuttle into Paris the next day. It looks like our journey to Paris central tomorrow will be easier than planned. And everyone is looking forward to exploring this next amazing city - and last European city - of our trip....

Crashed out on the couch