Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Bella Capri

Bella Capri

Arriving in Marina Grande
The hydrofoil only takes 20 minutes to go from Sorrento to Marina Grande in Capri -  and what a ride it is!


Behind us is the Sorrentine Penninsula with Sorrento on one side and the dark cliffs of the Amalfi coast disappearing into the morning mist on the other. Ahead Capri gets bigger, and taller and steeper. It’s huge rocky cliffs are both foreboding and welcoming at the same time.

Capri island has been a holiday destination and fishing village since before Roman times. One Roman emperor, Tiberius, loved the island so much that he built a huge estate here and effectively ran the Roman empire from Capri from 27 AD til his death in 37 AD. Not a bad place to work from!


Clara and "Greenie" the shiny Capri beatle

Prayers in the 17th century Church of Santo Stefano
We arrive at Marina Grande, without much of a plan. We only have about 5 hours to spend so the amount of things we can do with the munchkins is limited. First thing we hike up the steep roads leading from Marina Grande to the Piazzetta in Capri town. I can feel the recent illness in the steep hills and end up as the caboose of our little people chain. Clara hangs out with me and tells me all kinds of stories about her new “pet” “Greenie” – the shiny beetle that she found on a wall. I’m glad for the company. I’ve had some sad news that my Uncle Terry – my father’s brother – has taken a turn for the worse in his battle with melanoma, and isn’t expected to recover.

We reach the top of the long winding pathway and pop out onto the main square. We’ve told the kids about Uncle Terry and they all want to go into the main church there to say a prayer. Even Liana kneels down to light a candle and sends a good thought and prayer to our dyeing loved one. It’s pretty emotional as Uncle Terry epitomised all the goodness and kindness in this world, and inspired all of us to be better, more humble people.
Views from Tragara to UP to Mount Solaro 

This water is irresistible
Leaving Capri town we walk along the Belvedere of Tragara and drink up every drop of oohing and awing of the amazing view as it unfolds past pine trees, swirling mist and expensive villas.  Capri town is in the saddle between two mountains. You do not realise the size of the cliffs until you are standing under them looking up in awe.  

We picnic at the furthest spot along the way, with a lunch packed for us by the staff at our b&b. Looking down on Marina Picolo, Capri’s small port, the water begs us to jump into it, even though it is a thousand feet below. The cliffs are dotted with courageous umbrella pines and way down below are the boats, big and small of the holiday makers’ bob and streak through the azure vista. The spectacular Faraglioni rocks jut out of the ocean just off the coast to make a beautiful scene dramatic. Again we have glorious weather.
view from our picnic spot












Happy Family
A stroll, some window browsing and another session of oohing over the view and we are back to Capri town and the Piazzetta where I take a quick photo of my four intrepid kids. It captures the happiness that we all feel standing on this mass of rock, looking out into the calm, blue Tyrrhenian Sea. A sea that we’ve all decided that we much jump into no matter what!

Heading down the narrow streets to the marina
























So, we leave off our plans to visit Ana Capri, Roman ruins and the chairlift that goes to the tippy top of Mount Solaro, and head straight to the tourist boats that circle the island. With hands full of Lemoncello smoothie (heaven in a glass) we take the hour tour around the island, seeing all of it’s different sides and colours. We see the giant Natural Arch and soaring caves and uber luxury yachts and even travel through the arch of the Faraglioni Rocks that we had been admiring from our picnic. According to local legend (or tourist legend if you are not in a romantic mood) all lovers must kiss when they sail through the caves to ensure their love will be eternal. We hear a loud UHHHHMMMM and turn around to see Liana smirking at us. Randy gave me a good smooch on the lips directly under the arch, which made Liana beam and Liam gag. Gotta love kids. And romantic husbands.


















With the touristy stuff out of the way we all rush down to the white stone beach and begin frolicking in the perfect water. It’s refreshing and invigorating and just perfect. A sunny day on Capri. I could feel regret for the things we didn’t see, and things we didn’t do. But sometimes the right thing to do is to enjoy the moment and the little pleasures – like squealing kids and aqua coloured water.
 


















Another night, another evening of footy at the church in Sorrento for Liam and of course an amazing Italian dinner. As Hans Christian Anderson once said:


Just living is not enough... one must have sunshine, freedom, and a little flower.”

I’m not sure if he meant flowers as in fields of spring poppies, or the flour that is making my perfect pasta dish – but I heartily agree with both.

Much love for now, from me and mine.  


At our b&b in Sorrento, the kids waiting patiently to go out for dinner

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