Sick Bed, Flowers and Snakes.... Nepal Adventure Continues

Nepal Trip - Day 15 - Last Day in the Rural Countryside

Last night was rough. Enough said. 

So, needless to say I'm worthless today. All I can do is sleep, read, sleep, roll over and sleep. It takes me until noon before I can get anything fluid down me.

The kids and Randall go out for another school visit and I spend my time drifting in and out of the sounds of the rural life. The sounds of the farm animals, cuckoo birds, babies crying and dishes being washed on the side of the hill in the heat of the morning sun.

My spot for the day... Luckily my favorite travel author is keeping me company.... Thank you Michael Palin!

The family comes back late in the afternoon with stories of visiting another school, painting flowers and bumblebees. And heaps of drama. I nod and go back to sleep.

While I have been sleeping, the day seems to have been a strange one, with the stars not quite aligning around us. The family's adventure started with the car getting stuck in a ditch, next to a cliff. Of course I am out of order, the power doesn't come on all day (well that's not too unusual), and on the way home Durga and Gyan saw a car crash on the road and stayed to help. No one knows when they will be back. And to top it all off at dinner Jaimie stepped on a snake and the whole place erupts in frantic screaming (mainly from Sumi) while the village women go after it with sticks, creating utter chaos. I am so glad that I didn't know about the snakes while I was laying in the outdoor loo all night! Soon the poor wee snake is dead and everyone is laughing around the table again under the stars, enjoying a final dal baht meal together.

It's been a fabulous time spent in this rural environment, but our time here is done. It's time to move on tomorrow. Our lessons have been learned, friends made and many a story to use along the way.

Hopefully I will be upright enough to make the journey to the Tibetan border tomorrow morning. Another bus ride through the Nepali landscape. I am always happiest when I'm on the move.

For now I enjoy the sounds of the night and watch a brush fire move it's way slowly up a hill on the far side of the valley.

Namaste....

Rural Nepal Here We Come - From Pokhara to Village Life in Mulkharka

Nepal Trip Day 12

From Pokhara to the First Steps Himalaya Project 

Today we were up bright and early for our flight back to Kathmandu. It was muggy even at 8:15 a.m. when we were packing in to the van for the airport. 

At the Pokhara Airport waiting for our flight!

The rescue helicopter that we saw while on the Annapurna track rescuing hikers from the Annapurna Base Camp

Randall was particularly withdrawn this morning, but when we got to the airport it became evident that he was sick again, and much worse this time. While the rest of us enjoyed the scenic flight back to Kathmandu and views of the snowy peaks out our window, he was barely hanging on, trying valiantly not to use his air sickness bag.

We arrived with a little dread into Kathmandu domestic terminal. Such a madhouse, but with Durga on point and the kids on bag duty we managed to get everything on trolleys and out into the car park.  Not for the first time on this trip we are so glad that we have a local guiding us. Navigating this system as a foreign woman with a bunch of kids on my own would be stressful to say the least.

following the car with all our bags through the outskirts of Kathmandu

But travailing Nepali style will always have it's challenges. The 4wd car we are using to get to the next phase of our adventure is stuck in traffic - leaving us to wait in the hot car park watching monkeys climb along overloaded power lines and guarding our baggage from ambitious taxi drivers trying to get our fare. Poor Randall. Sigh, it's all part of travel.

Once both the cars arrive we pile in and head off onto the "Tibet Road" towards the project villages, thankfully skirting downtown Kathmandu and the worst of this chaotic town. At least we are acclimatized and ready for it now!

heading into the hills - local bus service... I like the natural air conditioning!

One thing you really get the feel of in Nepal is the amount of Western Money that has poured in here. It's big business. All improving the lot of the country, but it seems a bit strange to drive along a road leading to Tibet that is built by the Japanese, past buildings built by the Germans and later through a forest that was replanted by the Australians and heading to a school project mainly funded by New Zealand. Nepal is like many developing countries where there are an abundance of eager aid projects ready and willing to lend a hand to bring the third world up to scratch. But does it do any good?

We shall see. It seems that "progress" is certainly inevitable. And, in principle, I am definitely for uplifting the plight of the poor where possible, but my personal jury is still out on the blanket aid that takes money from the west and dumps it into a country that isn't ready for it, or doesn't know how to use it. It seems to create a nation of beggars, rather than uplifting their plight. And who doesn't want to have pride?

I'm not fully getting that feeling here in Nepal, and one of the things that attracted us to the First Steps Himalaya project is the grass roots aspect. They're whole focus is on teacher training and empowering the locals with a good Nepali educational system. Not fancy things, but fundamentals. We shall see if it can do anything to make me feel better about the modern concept of charity.

buying some last minute fruit before heading into the hills north of Kathmandu

We drive out of the city of Kathmandu and soon the suburbs fall away as we wind through the mountains and past increasingly rural towns. The smog and congestion gives way to rice fields and the traditional mud brick houses. After three hours of winding our way through the back roads and up into the hills we finally stop at the First Steps Himalaya flagship project.


The husband of one of the teachers has laid out a lunch of spicy pumpkin soup that we eat on the clay floor of his house. And Randall finally gets to rest in their spare room. He's done well to hang on this far!

Once we are done with the soup, the kids, Fiona and I walk up to the local state run primary school. It is an interesting thing to ponder that education has only been legal in Nepal since 1953. Before that it was illegal and reading and writing was strictly for the upper or ruling class. When Nepal started opening up to the outside world the westerners brought their ideas of education for all, changing the cultural dynamic here forever. But although the idea that all children should get an education has arrived, the knowledge of how to actually teach hasn't shown up yet. And the adult literacy rate is still only 60%.

As we walk up the dusty road the children are all just returning from lunch and our kids cause quite a stir. We are WAY far off the tourist track and to have a bunch of blond and red headed children to gawk at is irresistible. At the end of the road is a school of concrete classrooms with wooden shutters. The children all pour in to their allotted classrooms, presentable in their official blue uniforms.

Ever the intrepid adventurer Clara wants to jump right in by herself and we leave her in a small cement box classroom with the other children her age. She only lasts a few minutes before coming to find us. Liana, Liam, Jaimie and Rhona go into the year eight class who are studying science. In fact, the teacher is actually shouting facts at the children who are obviously used to this and aren't paying much attention. None of our kids last long and soon we walk down the hill to the preschool that sits below the state primary school. Here is something more along the lines of what we westerners are familiar with. 

Liana, Liam and Jaimie join in a year 8 science class at the local school

First Steps Himalaya have done a good job of setting up a preschool here on site and as part of their strategy of working their way up, have recently taken the year ones down to their building and paying for a trained teacher as well. The idea is to build up one year at a time. The biggest thing is to educate the teachers on how to teach and they are trying to lead by example, showing what proper teaching can achieve at a preschool and year one level will hopefully trickle upwards. Seems basic but it's got to be first steps just as their charity's name implies. Smart.

Clara and Juliet have a ball joining in the year one class. Juliet leads them in a song and Clara assists in the English lessons. It just goes to show that all children have something in common, it's only as we age that we layer the judgmentalism of our cultures onto our view of the world.

Clara and Juliet enjoy their afternoon in the FSH flagship preschool classroom

We spend the most part of the afternoon here, but the hall of the mountain king is rumbling again and the nearby mountains are threatening us with another deluge. We need to get moving, before the rainstorm keeps us from getting to our accommodation for the night. Think - all dirt roads from now on.

Hiking back through the village we stop for a quick peek at the flour mill where ladies haul up huge bags of rice from their farms to be turned into flour. The lesson for the kids was big when it comes to how much work these people put into just the daily necessities of life. And that this is not very far removed from what village life would have been like for our ancestors as well.

Grinding rice into flour

Covering the hay before the nightly rainstorm

We return to the cars to find Randall somewhat improved after a long lay down and we continue on to the turnoff to Mulkharka, the (even more remote) village where we are to be staying with a local family. 

At the turn off we walk the rest of the way while the one car takes all of our bags (the non 4wd wouldn't make it down the rutted dirt road) it's a twenty minute walk and we are followed by the local children and some young women curious about these strange foreigners in their very closed neighborhood. We must look so strange to them. The girls are dressed so beautifully in their colorful dresses. They shyly wave at us and giggle when we try to speak to them.

Finally reaching the house of Gyan Tamang, our host in Mulkharka

The family we are staying with are absolutely lovely. Gyan is of Tamang descent, a tribe that immigrated over the Himalaya's from Tibet many years before. His house is traditional in every way. It is obviously the families pride and joy to have this house and it is pristine and the food is amazing. Dal Bhat of course! The kids are spread out through the bedrooms and Randall and I get a comfortable room up the ladder on the second floor, above the kitchen. There is a cement outhouse behind the house that boasts a western toilet and even a hot shower!

From our window we can look down the valley at the terraces of crops. Not too far below us is another little farmlet which belongs to Gyan's parents. Gyan and his wife have a son who is in Kathmandu and a daughter of ten. She is home from boarding school for the occasion of having western house guests. Her name is Sumi and Clara, Juliet and Sumi are instantly best friends!

The night brings thunder and lightning and with no power brings the evening to an early close. We all keep our flashlights near so that we can navigate the wooden ladder in the dark. The sounds of the night surround us and lead to a dreamless sleep...

Tomorrow we will be working in some of the more impoverished schools. 

Goodnight. 

Pokhara, a bit of shopping

Nepal Adventure - Pokhara

I awoke to the dawn birds chirping away.

And then rolled over and went back to sleep. 

Two hours later I finally got up. It feels good to be back in our western comfort zone. And the simple things like a hot shower and a mattress feel so luxurious.

With nothing planned for the day we end up walking into town for a bit of shopping and browsing. There isn't too much we want here, but with the prices being so low it's fun to buy a few silly things. A skirt for Juliet, yak fur blankets for the girls, some t-shirts, a couple singing bowls. I braved one of the many barber shops for a head and shoulder massage, while Randall got himself a shaved head and face.

Traffic Jam, downtown Pokhara

Downtown Pokhara, life goes on as usual, despite the western tourists everywhere

Overall Pokhara is a backpackers stopover with all the expected bars, funny smoking devices and cheep goods shops. There are a few beggars here, professionals who have come over the border from India, who mar the scene with their vulgarity. It is quite noticeable when you see them and it makes you realise that, as chaotic as Nepal can seem sometimes, you really don't see the grinding poverty and begging that can be found elsewhere.

At least they are recycling - but it really makes you stop and think about the wastefulness of plastic bottles. We carried water purifying drops to avoid contributing to this situation. Sometimes I wonder if the earth won't someday drown in plastic?

As one of the stops on the "hippy" trail you can imagine the vibe of Pokhara. Don't get me wrong, it is not repulsive, on the contrary.... But it is certainly not authentic Nepal. But maybe the reality of what Nepal must become? The Nepali people who live here don't seem to mind the western influences. They have their competing shops selling north-fake jackets and eat their dal baht while tourists stroll the streets. Nepal was part of the Silk Trail and the people have learned to be good traders, whatever the current needs and wants might be.

barber shop selfie...

Juliet buys a Nepali skirt

having pants made from hemp material

While we enjoy our little retail journey into Pokhara it doesn't take long for us to beat a trail back to the hotel and the pool. The pool feels good in the afternoon heat and reinvigorates our sore hiking muscles.

Later we brave the streets again for dinner back in town and Mother Nature delights us with another all consuming lighting storm. This time we make it back to the hotel before the deluge and spend the rest of the night watching Bollywood TV... Was it really only two nights ago that we were sleeping in a mud floored tea house?

Namaste

White knuckling it all the way to Pokhara!

Nepal Adventure - Day Eight - Annapurna Trail - Ghandruk to Pokhara

It's almost dawn - get up!

This time it was my hubby waking me up. I scratch my eyes and roll out onto the sandy floor. Too groggy even to look for spiders!

Dawn from our tea house in Ghandruk

Last morning with our friend, Annapurna South (7,219 mtrs)

As on the other mornings the mountains have emerged from their cloudy blankets to give another breathtaking sunrise. Annapurna South and Fish Tail Mountains are silently getting their morning sun ablutions...

As it gets lighter we sit on the lawn and drink milk tea. Watching the sun rise through the mist is the perfect way to finish this trek. I'm beginning to understand why people get up early, it's a silent time filled with promise before the world awakes fully.

Last Sunrise on the Annapurna Trek

But soon the fried eggs and Tibetan Bread are out and the kids start bouncing around. There are sleeping bags to stuff and water bottles to sanitise. Time to get moving...

The rescue helicopter is flying back and forth up the valley that leads to the Annapurna Base Camp. Not a good sign, as some people must be in big trouble, and after the killer avalanche that hit Mt Everest the week before we can only hope that the mountains have not claimed too many more lives.

Walking through Ghandruk

It's a very short hike for us today, just an hour downhill, through the village of Ghandruk. Past many a family house with fields and Water Buffalo's. There is much more business and human activity going on here, with people carrying everything up and down the trail. For those houses being built in Ghandruk all their materials have to be brought up either by the donkey trains or on peoples backs. One donkey train has a western toilet on it, while another man is carrying huge piping up the steepest part of the trail. It's a different life here!

Over a few wooden bridges and one last steep set of stairs and we can spy a real road, still dirt, but a road none the less. And a waiting jeep and driver to save us a six hour downhill trek to Pokhara in the building heat. 

Leaving Ghandruk

The picture says it all...

Not hiking the dusty, hot trail seemed like a good idea at the time, but I must confess the drive was one of the most harrowing two hours of my life. The road was only built a year ago, and is very narrow. Deep valleys  drop away from the side of the road.  For someone as afraid of heights as me, it was seriously disturbing. The road was only wide enough for one car, and the cliff was straight down. The road was full of pot holes and beeping buses that wanted to pass. It was white knuckles all the way.

But I guess everything in life has lessons to learn. While I did not enjoy the ride, I did learn to let go of the fear and turn some of the worrying over to a higher authority.

The end of the trail for us....

My view of the road. The valley floor is 1,000 feet below us.... White knuckling it all the way....

Liam collecting our trekking passes from the local authorities.

And as we get closer to Pokhara, the traffic increases and so do the horns and pollution and the other things that we got so completely away from on the trek.

It was some very happy kids who piled out of the Jeep at the Temple Tree Resort in Pokhara. It's a beautiful Westernised hotel, complete with swimming pool! It doesn't take them long to all jump in and resume the western life we are used to. It seems a bit surreal to have started the day with earthen floored rooms and ending it by the pool with waiters asking to take your drink orders.

Back to Western Life...

For dinner all ten of us walk into the quirky little hippy resort town of Pokhara to have a leisurely dinner at one of it's fine restaurants. Durga tells us that this particular restaurant has a generator that goes 24/7 so it is safe to eat a wider selection of things, as it doesn't have the refrigeration issues that goes along with Nepal's frequent power outages. After a week of lentils and fried eggs, the fresh steamed veggies and fish from the lake were so yummy!

During dinner there was energy from the mountains coming our way in the form of a building lighting storm. The kids danced around the outside patio celebrating the feel of the storm. Liam went into film making mode with my phone and captured some of the huge tendrils of light that were swirling down from the black clouds.

Just as we were about to walk home the heavens unleashed. We waited for the worst of it to pass and then struggled along the flooded streets. Rain was washing away the filth of the town. Wading knee deep through streets that are now rivers we finally make it back to our hotel. Juliet is not impressed washing the water buffalo dung from between her toes but, funny enough, I insist on it before she climbs into bed!

Earlier that day I had picked up a bottle of wine for Randall and I to share on the balcony while the kids sleep.... unfortunately when we open it up it tastes and smells like slightly off apple juice. Guess I've been had. Oh well, time for bed anyway.... Tomorrow we will have a beer!

This part of our trip - the Annapurna Trek - has been a fantastic experience all the way around. It far surpassed all of my expectations, not just the stunning scenery, but also the tea houses, the porters, the rural lifestyle, the dal bhat and the people we met along the way. I will miss my morning milk tea with the mountains!

It will forever be locked into the memory banks. But looking forward it will be fun to have a few quiet days in Pokhara before adventuring out again to work in the First Steps Himalaya's school projects with our hosts Fiona and Durga.

For now, it's a white sheeted Western Bed with lots of pillows and a long sleep!

Namaste ~

Downhill to Gandruk!

Nepal Adventure - Day 8 - Annapurna Trail Tadapani to Gandruk - DOWNHILL!

Heidi, wake up!

I'm awake, I'm awake. Randall and I struggle out of our sleeping bags and stumble out onto the communal balcony. Oh wow! Right there in all their glory, bathed in the pre-dawn light is Annapurna South and Machhapuchre (Fish Tail Mountain).

Much as I hate getting woken up, I'm very thankful Fionna pounded on my door! What a view. It's different from Poon Hill, not an all encompassing sweeping view, but more of an in-your-face tall mountains. As we sit on our railing, drinking hot milk tea and watching the rays of the sun come over Fish Tail Mountain I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be.

Goodmorning Tadapani and the Annapurna Mountains!

After the gruelling hike yesterday it's nice to have a slow day today. I must confess to some sore muscles! A whole pot of tea on the balcony, a slow breakfast and some yoga before packing up is just the call. Juliet, who was our super hiker yesterday, sleeps fourteen hours and doesn't wake up until halfway through breakfast. Guess I'm not the only one who is feeling the previous day's hike!

Sunrise over Machhapuchare or Fish Tail Mountain, 6,993 meters high

In the tea house in Tadapani - Juliet gets fussed over by the Inn Keeper

We have to leave this view???

Eventually we must set off though. Another day on the trail ahead, but lucky for us, it's mainly downhill!

At the leisurely hour of nine thirty off we say goodbye to Tadapani and hear off down the trail. It's a beautiful trek, through forests with small waterfalls and groves of moss covered banks. In the forests old ladies are gathering firewood and every once and a while we disturb a grazing water buffalo. It seems almost normal to be next to these beasts now. The downhill takes us about two and a half hours and suddenly we are in Gandruk, the chief town of the Gorung people.

Disturbing the locals

Arriving in Gandruk

As we found in the little towns at the beginning of our Annapurna adventure, the long reach of the British Empire and their elite Gurka regiments  - taken from these Gorung villages - leaves a wealthy legacy for the people here. The slate roofs are tidy, and although most floors are dirt they are well kept with pride. Most houses have flowers planted around in addition to the crops.

We lunch at our tea house for the day where I order a grilled cheese sandwich for a change from the Dal Bhat. Surprise, it's made with Yak cheese and the flavour is a bit too intense for me to stomach.

The trail up that valley leads to Annapurna Base Camp, but it is hidden in thunderstorms today!

After lunch Randall braves the hard bed in our earthen floored room, all this trekking has been rough on his back. Meanwhile the kids and I follow Durga and Fiona into the town in search of a "German" bakery. The town is noticeably well off compared to the other towns that we have been through, and sure enough there is a bakery to be found where the kids devour a piece of chocolate cake and I have my afternoon milk tea. There is a TV in the corner playing the Nepali version of MTV and the kids crack up at the videos. Most songs are mainstream music from America and Britain, but mixed in is a bit of Bollywood. None have the Western Videos attached though, copyright issues would be my guess. Some, like Katy Perry just showed bouncing balloons with the written out lyrics - karaoke style - while others have stand in singers lips sinking the tunes. I couldn't help but notice that the "singers" were all Chinese. Yes, the Nepali TV, accurately reflecting it's position squashed between India and China.

In Gandruk, waiting for the Donkey trains to pass.

We had every intention of exploring the town further when suddenly the heavens exploded. Coming down the valleys from the mountain peaks was a good, loud thunder storm and we beat a hasty retreat to our tea house before the storm hit fully. Huge rain drops chase us back up the hill to the tea house. We got back just in time before it unleashed all it's fury. As quick as it came, so it passed, leaving us to the view again.

Running back to our tea house being chased by the rain! Amazing lighting!

The tea house we are staying at today has something we haven't seen much of in the last few days - flat lawn! It doesn't take long after the storm for the kids to make friends with the proprietors children and soon they have a soccer game up and running, using an empty plastic water bottle. The porters get involved and soon it's all on. At least with the plastic bottle they avoid having to run down the steep embankment too many times.

Juliet and I spend some time in the dining hall playing bananagrams with our friends. The little dude of the house, a small boy of about two, has never seen a little white girl before and becomes absolutely obsessed with Juliet and follows her everywhere. And when she doesn't give him attention he does everything from pitch a tanty to hit her over the head with a bat to get her attention. Ah, first love.

Juliet's new Nepali friend - he had eyes only for her!

At dinner we find out that it's Durga's bday. Out comes the Nepali drums and soon everyone is singing and dancing. We've only known this family for a week, but after trekking at high altitude and living together in such basic accommodations the friendship has progress far more than just as guides or guests. The night is filled with music and laughter.

The only dampener was when I went to brush my teeth at the outdoor sink and found myself face to face with a spider the size of my hand. Those who know me would be extremely proud, the spider and I made eye contact while I slowly backed away and we both lived to see another day. Needless to say when I returned back into our room I woke everyone up by sliding my bed frame away from the earthen walls giving me a small sense of security from a late night visit from the hairy beast who watched me clean my teeth...

Tomorrow we finish up the hike and head back to Westernised Pokhara. I am feeling a bit disturbed that this part of our trip is over already. It has been one of the highlights of my life. With tired muscles and a peaceful soul it's time to sleep one last night in the shadow of the silent giants, the Annapurna range....

Namaste

Poon Hill - Watching the Sunrise from the Top of the World

Nepal Adventure - Day Seven - Annapurna Trek, Poon Hill, Ghorepani to Tadapani

I slept poorly. Not only was it sub zero temperatures and high altitude, but our room hung out over a canyon and the wind whistled through it like a pack of banshees on the attack. When the alarm went off at 4am I was already awake. Every layer of clothing that I wasn't already wearing went on before heading out this morning. The kids had all slept in their clothes which let them just roll out of the sleeping bags and start marching up the hill.

Staying at the highest tea house makes sense to me now. The trail up to the famous Poon Hill starts from our back door. It's pitch black and even with torches and head lamps the darkness seems to press in on us. If I wasn't so sleepy I would have worried more about losing a child off a cliff. As we get onto the main trail leading up we join what seems to be a long procession of tourists, the first real crowds we've seen on the trek. With every step the higher elevation seems to rob the breath out of our lungs.



We make it to the top of Poon Hill as the grey light of dawn starts to illuminate the world around us and the amazing peaks of the Annapurna range become visible. The dawn creeps up and bursts onto the mountains. From the cold frosty morning to suddenly being bathed in golden sunlight it is surreal.

dawn touching the peaks

All of the mountains are visible and clear as can be, something that is hit or miss this time of year. What a show of force the earth puts on here - Annapurna I at 8,091 meters (26,545 ft) is the tenth tallest mountain in the world and Dhaulagiri at 8,167 meters (26,795 ft) is the seventh tallest mountain. And between them lay 13 additional peaks over 7,000 meters and 16 more over 6,000 meters, all clad in rich deep snow. The sensory experience is unreal.

As the sun rises higher the shadows create different shapes on the mountains illuminating the snow drifts and avalanche areas. The ever changing light creating a palate of faces that jump out and move, or maybe they really are inhabited by the gods, as the locals believe.

The ground beneath our feet is icy and hard and we are very happy that the enterprising villagers have carried up thermoses of hot chocolate to sell to the tourists. Probably the most tasty hot chocolate ever! 

Majestic Annapurna I

Pretty soon the first planes come by heading from Pokhara to Jomsom (a town located in the Mustang district of Nepal). We are so high that we are actually looking down on the commercial planes buzzing past. Yes, let me say that again. Looking down on the airplanes, and up at the mountains. Wow.

Sunrise over the Annapurna Range

After the tourists leave we have small ceremony, just the six of us, and scatter the ashes of my mum and dad.  It's the first time the kids have been included in saying goodbye to their grandparents, and this place just seemed to be the right place, the right time. Maybe because I am finally ready to let go fully.

Finally it's time to march back down Poon Hill. Clara provides motivation by singing the Imagine Dragon's song "We're on Top of the World". Good choice! Buzzing from the morning we rock up to the tea house just as our fried eggs and Tibetan bread comes out of the kitchen. There was never a breakfast that tasted so good!

Our porters carrying our bags up the mountain

Packed up and ready to go, the Porters load up and we are off. First down through the little village of Ghorepani and then slogging back up in elevation on the hill opposite to Poon Hill. The trail climbs back up to 3,200 meters again, but this time we're hiking it in the sunshine. It's sweltering hot but we're proud of our little super hikers. We take a rest just before the final summiting to take in the view of all the mountains around us. We are spectacularly lucky in the weather as it is still clear as can be. The mountains are so close you can touch them. 

YAKS!!!

We sigh looking at the huge hill still left to climb, when suddenly Randall spots something furry grazing on the side of the cliff. Yaks!!! Rare animals to see below 3000 meters (oh wait, we are back up above that now) Juliet is in the lead sprinting up through the thin air to see the shaggy cow-like creatures. It takes me a while longer to chug and puff up after them, but when I do, there they are, a mummy and baby yak placidly grazing away. This was Juliet's biggest wish for the trip - to see a yak and she is blessed out! Randall climbs down the mountainside to get the perfect shot and then we are off along the ridge-top looking through blooming rhododendron trees up at the peaks above us. The trees are blooming, the flowers are blooming. It is springtime in Nepal.

The girls sing and look for fairies. It makes the kilometers slip away and before long we are saying goodbye to our stunning mountain views and start descending down a sharp gorge that must be absolutely vibrating with water during the wet season. But for now it's just a trickle.

trekking between Ghorepani and Tadapani

Part of trekking is the people you meet. The hippies carrying huge packs and talking our ears off, the Chinese hikers with perfectly matching gear and the Aussie who now knows our whole life stories, courtesy of Clara. And all of them exclaim over the kids and their trekking. I sheepishly admit that they are practically running rings around me! Trekking can certainly be done, and enjoyed, by families - you just have to prepare and be sensible with your expectations.

Lunch was way down this valley in a town called Banthanti and the food was exceptional. My Dhal Batt is really good and the ginger tea is so strong it practically puts hair on the chest! Surely no germ would be able to survive that brew! Luckily the food was so reviving, because I had no idea of what was to come. I'm glad I didn't realize that when we start descending the huge gorge that we would have to ascend the other side. Holly cow. I must admit I have a bit of a wobbly half was up the next mountain side. My legs are shaking, we've been out in the elements since 4:30am and we are heading back up in elevation, in the hot sun. But there's not much choice. There are no real tea houses on this stretch so it's a long day no matter which way you slice it. The big kids have all headed off ahead of us with the porters.

When we finally get to the village of Tadapani I throw down my backpack and sit in a heated sulk on the patio. (Have I mentioned that I don't do hot very well.) Luckily my man knows me so well and comes out of the tea house with some panadol, an ice cold coke and a bottle of water. Twenty minutes later I'm shivering from the dried sweat and the frigid out door temperatures but with a smile back on my face. The kids high five dad for his quick thinking. Our rooms are upstairs and all in a row along a large cement patio facing the valley and presumably the mountains beyond (they are swaddled in clouds during the afternoon).

On the balcony outside our rooms at our tea house in Tadapani

And luxury beyond luxury a really hot shower!!!!! My first since starting out in the mountains. I get in quick before anyone else realizes because there is only one and a whole tea house full of trekkers who have just done the same hike as us. Ah, what a difference a shower can make on your perspective!

No one eats much for dinner as we are more exhausted than words can explain. Liam is the first to fall into bed, well before six. The tea house has a great communal room downstairs where everyone congregates and once the kids are all tucked into their sleeping bags Randall and I head back down. I gadfly about chatting with other trekkers - mostly Australians and Germans - while Randall pulls out the travel guitar and has a great time with the porters who all have a warm fascination for his western guitar and songs. It's a pretty big night for us, we shared a beer and stayed up till 830.

rappin' with the porters

Snuggled into our sleeping bags the moon comes up during the night and the clouds go away.

Sometime in the middle of the night (while rushing through the freezing night air to the toilet) I am stopped in my tracks by the view of the moonlight beaming off the now clear mountains. The moonlight and starlight reflect off of the mountain snow in an otherworldly display, a final present on this most amazing of days.