Cairo and the Great Pyramids
It's the last early up and long bus tour day of the trip I promise the kids (and myself as well). It's dawn and already stinking hot. We are docked in the port of Alexandria, Egypt for the next two days and have open access to Egypt, for as long as we can handle it.
The bus takes us about 2 1/2 hour to go from the Mediterranean Sea to Cairo. We are looking for our first sandy glimpse of the last standing wonder of the ancient world - The Great Pyramids of Cheops. Liam is practically jumping out of his seat. He so wants to be the first to see them. Our bus drives through city, filled with the ubiquitous half finished buildings - until suddenly they are there right in front of us. Huge and majestic. Looking a bit sad and forlorn, wishing for their days of glory, but still standing strong and loyal.
The Pyramids were built around 2560 BC, the largest was finished in just 20 years. A stunning testimony to the Old Kingdom of Egypt and the Pharaohs who wished their tombs to be epoch memorials to their time in power and their home for the afterlife. Tourists have been coming here to see them for millennium. Now that's a really interesting thought. Not years, not decades, not even thousands of years - but millennium. It makes you feel a bit small and connected to humanity as a whole all the at the same time.
The Great Pyramid of Cheops was the tallest man made structure for 3,800 years. Having seen the Burg Khalifa (the current tallest building in the world) in Dubai just a few weeks ago it makes me appreciate the durability of this ancient wonder. I doubt the Burg Khalifa will still be standing 300 years from now, let alone 4,000 plus years. Just pause and give a silent nod to the builders who built for the future and not just the short term glory.
Our bus drives directly past each of the two huge pyramids, as well as the smaller ones, designated for the Queens, and stops on top of a large sand dune/parking lot for a panoramic view of the area.
We are plus one today. One of the kids friends from the ship, TJ, is in our care. (Hey when you already have four, what's one more?) He is a super nice 12 year old from Auckland who gets along with all our kids, but who is also not as used to the rougher side of life. Meaning specifically the awful hawkers of all the crappy Egyptian souvenirs who prey upon the tourist buses stopping at the famous sights.
We get off the bus and are literally swarmed. They are a very hands on sort. They are putting necklaces on my girls, head dresses on my boys and shoving old post cards in my face. I get very angry and start shouting at the top of my lungs which they think is great, taking it to be my interest that is fuelling my outburst. Damn!! The best thing to do is ignore them, but practising that is hard for me. The hawkers respond to a different kind of language, one that we would consider very rude. Complete imperial indifference I jokingly call it. But hey we survived, and got some lovely pictures too.
Next stop we are given another warning about the hawkers and let loose on the pyramids themselves. It's good to get up and personal with the huge structure. Randall, who is the most remarkable bargainer I have ever met, has arranged to have our photo taken on a camel, which is a bit of a crack up. The camel is belching and moaning and growling. The hawkers are all shouting at us. We're all laughing. It's complete chaos. But hey, this is Egypt. You have to roll with it. If not, why come? Other cultures are great to experience, and sometimes they make you realise the things you like about your own!
Just after we are done taking photos with/on the grumpy camel (never did get one with all of us at the same time) I hear a yelp and poor TJ has been physically grabbed and put on a different camel (an animal he is not keen to be around, let alone on). He panics. I yell. The camel jockey asks for money to take him off. I yell louder. Then finally make a jump and physically pull the poor boy off the camel and keep my arms wrapped around him for the next few minutes. (The next day he shows me bruises which he is telling everyone is from the hawker, but I must admit, I think are from me grabbing him, poor guy.)
We head over to the actual foot of the pyramid and this time the persistent buggers side step grumpy mama bear and pick on Randall. Bad idea. He puts one guy in an arm lock and pins his arm behind his back. Suddenly we are left alone and the younger hawker calls him "The Man from New Zealand". TJ and Liam love this. (And so do I.) We are able to continue our tour in peace - and Liam is asking to join karate class again.
The blocks of the pyramids are just so huge! From far away they look like small building bricks, but up close they are far above our heads. The kids scramble up part of the way of one. The hot dusty scene makes it feel old. Once upon a time, this whole place would have been sparkling marble and temples and fountains. The holiest ground of Egypt. Time moves on for all of us, even great monuments and civilisations.
Next stop the Sphinx. So now to test a little of your high school history.... What walks on four legs in the morning, two legs in the mid day and three legs in the evening?
Yep, the riddle of the Sphinx. Anyone remember the answer?
We have a good half an hour to explore the very crowded area. The kids say they are more moved by the huge human headed lion than they were by the pyramids. And it does look pretty amazing with the pyramids in the background. The scientists think the face of the Sphinx is that of Cheops, none other than the Pharaoh responsible for the giant pyramids. (Makes senses really!)
Back on the bus, we head to lunch at a super plush near-by hotel. It's weird to come from the poverty of the street vendors and unfinished buildings to be met by a brass band dressed as Egyptian Pharaohs playing Jingle Bells (really, that is such a non sequitar it is hard to describe) and ushered into the uber fine, five star luxury that we are eating in. Not that any of us complain about the air conditioning.
The final stop on the itinerary of our last long day is the Egyptian Museum. Home to the treasures of King Tutankhamen and mummies of the Valley of the Kings.
But before we are allowed to go there we must go by the obligatory shopping stop, which must be the bus driver's families store. Papyrus and souvenirs of all kinds. What's your best price?
I was very proud of Liana. She really wanted to buy some Egyptian papyrus, and managed to get the price down by over 50%. She stuck to her price and even started walking out on the guy before he finally gave her what she wanted. She's so happy with her wall art and I was so happy to see her negotiating in the real world.
So, finally, finally we reach the famous Egyptian museum. Next door is a burned out building, left over from the rioting that rocked Egypt a year ago. There is a change in the government, but one can only wonder if the people will be able to shake the corrupt military government that has ruled the country since the 50's?
To see the museum, you really need at least a week, or more! And we only have an hour (due to the extra long stop at Mohamed's brother's nephew's son's sister shopping mart.) There are so many niches, each filled with it's own treasure. We take a brief tour through the funerary equipment that accompanied the boy king, Tutankhamen, to his grave. His favourite chariot. Beds. Shoes. Chairs. Statuary. And finally we enter the heavily guarded room that contains his jewels. His rings and necklaces, and most amazingly, his death mask. A likeness of the boy himself, just 18 when he died, in solid gold, with inlaid precious gems and so stunning all five kids stand in front of it with the proverbial jaw dropped expressions. I can't help shake the feeling that this is really him. Even though 3,000 years separate us, I know him a little.
Randall spots a tiny sign that leads off to another room and it hold animal mummies (because Egyptians mummified EVERYTHING important to them). There are huge crocodiles, tiny cats, baboons, Nile Perch the size of large dogs, and even bulls. It's amazing.
Last but not least we suck it up and pay nearly $100 extra to enter the room of the mummies. Yes, even the Egyptian Museum must hit you up for that last money. This is Egypt right?
I had a talk with the kids outside the room about what we were going to see. The dead kings and queens of Egypt. Their actual bodies and how it is important to show our respect. I don't think it prepared them.
The ability of the ancient Egyptians to preserve their dead is legendary and it is well deserved. The faces of some of the mummies look like they may just open up their eyes and have a chat with you. The bodies are skinny, but most have parts that are so well preserved they could be part of me. My hands, or my foot sticking out of the bandages. To think these were living, talking, breathing, loving people who just happened to walk the earth millennium ago is astonishing. Clara shed a quiet tear or two. Juliet plastered herself against me. TJ refused to come all the way into the room. Liam was horrified at first and then got his courage to come in and read all of their information to us. Liana was fascinated. Getting down and looking into each face. That's my girl. I find it a bit unsettling to look upon them. They wished to be buried in the ground or in their tombs so that they could enjoy their endless slumber, but here we are putting them on display for people to gawk at, all in the name of science. I must say it leaves me with an unpleasant feeling.
Back to Alexandria by bus. It takes forever. The kids are well and truly done when we get back. The girls fall asleep before we even have dinner. As much as I fought the idea of a cruise ship at the beginning of this trip I must say that it is a nice thing to come back to with the little monkeys, safe, cool, and very western. Ah, and a nice shower!!!
Tomorrow is Alexandria. Our last day in Africa!
It's the last early up and long bus tour day of the trip I promise the kids (and myself as well). It's dawn and already stinking hot. We are docked in the port of Alexandria, Egypt for the next two days and have open access to Egypt, for as long as we can handle it.
The bus takes us about 2 1/2 hour to go from the Mediterranean Sea to Cairo. We are looking for our first sandy glimpse of the last standing wonder of the ancient world - The Great Pyramids of Cheops. Liam is practically jumping out of his seat. He so wants to be the first to see them. Our bus drives through city, filled with the ubiquitous half finished buildings - until suddenly they are there right in front of us. Huge and majestic. Looking a bit sad and forlorn, wishing for their days of glory, but still standing strong and loyal.
Our bus drives directly past each of the two huge pyramids, as well as the smaller ones, designated for the Queens, and stops on top of a large sand dune/parking lot for a panoramic view of the area.
We are plus one today. One of the kids friends from the ship, TJ, is in our care. (Hey when you already have four, what's one more?) He is a super nice 12 year old from Auckland who gets along with all our kids, but who is also not as used to the rougher side of life. Meaning specifically the awful hawkers of all the crappy Egyptian souvenirs who prey upon the tourist buses stopping at the famous sights.
We get off the bus and are literally swarmed. They are a very hands on sort. They are putting necklaces on my girls, head dresses on my boys and shoving old post cards in my face. I get very angry and start shouting at the top of my lungs which they think is great, taking it to be my interest that is fuelling my outburst. Damn!! The best thing to do is ignore them, but practising that is hard for me. The hawkers respond to a different kind of language, one that we would consider very rude. Complete imperial indifference I jokingly call it. But hey we survived, and got some lovely pictures too.
Next stop we are given another warning about the hawkers and let loose on the pyramids themselves. It's good to get up and personal with the huge structure. Randall, who is the most remarkable bargainer I have ever met, has arranged to have our photo taken on a camel, which is a bit of a crack up. The camel is belching and moaning and growling. The hawkers are all shouting at us. We're all laughing. It's complete chaos. But hey, this is Egypt. You have to roll with it. If not, why come? Other cultures are great to experience, and sometimes they make you realise the things you like about your own!
Just after we are done taking photos with/on the grumpy camel (never did get one with all of us at the same time) I hear a yelp and poor TJ has been physically grabbed and put on a different camel (an animal he is not keen to be around, let alone on). He panics. I yell. The camel jockey asks for money to take him off. I yell louder. Then finally make a jump and physically pull the poor boy off the camel and keep my arms wrapped around him for the next few minutes. (The next day he shows me bruises which he is telling everyone is from the hawker, but I must admit, I think are from me grabbing him, poor guy.)
We head over to the actual foot of the pyramid and this time the persistent buggers side step grumpy mama bear and pick on Randall. Bad idea. He puts one guy in an arm lock and pins his arm behind his back. Suddenly we are left alone and the younger hawker calls him "The Man from New Zealand". TJ and Liam love this. (And so do I.) We are able to continue our tour in peace - and Liam is asking to join karate class again.The blocks of the pyramids are just so huge! From far away they look like small building bricks, but up close they are far above our heads. The kids scramble up part of the way of one. The hot dusty scene makes it feel old. Once upon a time, this whole place would have been sparkling marble and temples and fountains. The holiest ground of Egypt. Time moves on for all of us, even great monuments and civilisations.
Next stop the Sphinx. So now to test a little of your high school history.... What walks on four legs in the morning, two legs in the mid day and three legs in the evening?
Yep, the riddle of the Sphinx. Anyone remember the answer?
We have a good half an hour to explore the very crowded area. The kids say they are more moved by the huge human headed lion than they were by the pyramids. And it does look pretty amazing with the pyramids in the background. The scientists think the face of the Sphinx is that of Cheops, none other than the Pharaoh responsible for the giant pyramids. (Makes senses really!)
Back on the bus, we head to lunch at a super plush near-by hotel. It's weird to come from the poverty of the street vendors and unfinished buildings to be met by a brass band dressed as Egyptian Pharaohs playing Jingle Bells (really, that is such a non sequitar it is hard to describe) and ushered into the uber fine, five star luxury that we are eating in. Not that any of us complain about the air conditioning.
The final stop on the itinerary of our last long day is the Egyptian Museum. Home to the treasures of King Tutankhamen and mummies of the Valley of the Kings.
But before we are allowed to go there we must go by the obligatory shopping stop, which must be the bus driver's families store. Papyrus and souvenirs of all kinds. What's your best price?
I was very proud of Liana. She really wanted to buy some Egyptian papyrus, and managed to get the price down by over 50%. She stuck to her price and even started walking out on the guy before he finally gave her what she wanted. She's so happy with her wall art and I was so happy to see her negotiating in the real world.So, finally, finally we reach the famous Egyptian museum. Next door is a burned out building, left over from the rioting that rocked Egypt a year ago. There is a change in the government, but one can only wonder if the people will be able to shake the corrupt military government that has ruled the country since the 50's?
To see the museum, you really need at least a week, or more! And we only have an hour (due to the extra long stop at Mohamed's brother's nephew's son's sister shopping mart.) There are so many niches, each filled with it's own treasure. We take a brief tour through the funerary equipment that accompanied the boy king, Tutankhamen, to his grave. His favourite chariot. Beds. Shoes. Chairs. Statuary. And finally we enter the heavily guarded room that contains his jewels. His rings and necklaces, and most amazingly, his death mask. A likeness of the boy himself, just 18 when he died, in solid gold, with inlaid precious gems and so stunning all five kids stand in front of it with the proverbial jaw dropped expressions. I can't help shake the feeling that this is really him. Even though 3,000 years separate us, I know him a little.
Randall spots a tiny sign that leads off to another room and it hold animal mummies (because Egyptians mummified EVERYTHING important to them). There are huge crocodiles, tiny cats, baboons, Nile Perch the size of large dogs, and even bulls. It's amazing.
Last but not least we suck it up and pay nearly $100 extra to enter the room of the mummies. Yes, even the Egyptian Museum must hit you up for that last money. This is Egypt right?
I had a talk with the kids outside the room about what we were going to see. The dead kings and queens of Egypt. Their actual bodies and how it is important to show our respect. I don't think it prepared them.
The ability of the ancient Egyptians to preserve their dead is legendary and it is well deserved. The faces of some of the mummies look like they may just open up their eyes and have a chat with you. The bodies are skinny, but most have parts that are so well preserved they could be part of me. My hands, or my foot sticking out of the bandages. To think these were living, talking, breathing, loving people who just happened to walk the earth millennium ago is astonishing. Clara shed a quiet tear or two. Juliet plastered herself against me. TJ refused to come all the way into the room. Liam was horrified at first and then got his courage to come in and read all of their information to us. Liana was fascinated. Getting down and looking into each face. That's my girl. I find it a bit unsettling to look upon them. They wished to be buried in the ground or in their tombs so that they could enjoy their endless slumber, but here we are putting them on display for people to gawk at, all in the name of science. I must say it leaves me with an unpleasant feeling.
Back to Alexandria by bus. It takes forever. The kids are well and truly done when we get back. The girls fall asleep before we even have dinner. As much as I fought the idea of a cruise ship at the beginning of this trip I must say that it is a nice thing to come back to with the little monkeys, safe, cool, and very western. Ah, and a nice shower!!!
Tomorrow is Alexandria. Our last day in Africa!
My Adventurous Travelin family, wow, your travels sound amazing and what a wonderful experience for all the kids to learn so much! I miss you lots and think of you always...continue to have fun and safe travels to Alexandria! much love, your dear friend, Cathy
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