Ahhh, goodbye beautiful Florence (and the night train from hell to Paris)

Goodbye beautiful Florence and Italy....

It's the morning of our last day in Italy. Tonight we board the overnight train from Florence to Paris.

But there is a bit of housekeeping to tend to before any pursuit of happiness can begin. With our Eurail passes being stolen I must make my way to the carbinierri station in Florence to have a report made for our insurance. Ooooo, this is so how I want to spend my last morning in Italy!

Not.

Just in case you didn't believe me!

I leave the kids with Randall and head out in search of the Police station. It's a long, long wait. Stuck in a room with fake leather seats, one newspaper and lots of people waiting their turn. But you know the old saying, if you can't get out of something, get into it! So I embraced my little adventure. There was the couple, obviously lovers - need I say more. Then there was the old man who didn't speak a word of English but insisted on talking to me nonstop. I felt quite proud (and exhausted) that I was able to keep up with the conversation and we were able to "chat" about our trip and his dog. All the while I was fascinated by the dress code here. Italians love their clothes, and wear some amazing creations! The top pick for me this morning was the man in the purple pants wearing lime green shoes and a plaid blazer that matched. Wowzers. I snuck a photo in on my iphone just to prove it was indeed the truth.

After a two hour wait I am ushered into a little room with a very nice police man. Unfortunately he does not speak English at all. I try my best, but he doesn't want to put anything in a report that he is not completely sure of. I try the translation ap for my iphone. We get slightly further. After half an hour he calls in another officer who speaks a little English (why didn't we do this 30 minutes ago?) and finally I have a police report. Hallelujah! Let's just hope the travel insurance keeps their end of the bargain.

As I walk through the lovely old streets of Florence I realize I am feeling a bit sad. Even though we have been traveling for weeks I feel like it's going too fast. There has been such an immense amount of history, culture and life to assimilate; but it's almost like a drug addiction, I don't want it to end. Luckily we still have nearly two weeks, but that will fly by.....

Beautiful Florence

I get back to the hotel just before the troops arrive home from their morning out. They've been shopping and eating and checking out more of Florence.

I am very keen to hike up to the Piazzale Michelangelo to see some views over the city and get a perspective of the city from on high... The kids are troopers and hike up past the old medieval walls to the gardens without too much fuss.

The gardens that we hike through are lovely, roses and lilies and other beautiful flowers. Even in a city their is always room for beauty.

There are many interesting things to be seen in the gardens of Florence

View from the Piazzale Michelangelo

For me to get a glimpse of the ancient medieval walls that once surrounded all of Florence was a highlight. Just imagine five hundred years ago, these stone walls would have completely surrounded the city, protecting it from outside invaders and keeping the citizens safe. Most European cities would have been constructed like this and I wonder what it looked like back in the day, a city completely ringed by these walls. (Oh wait, Dubrovnik, it hasn't been that long since we've seen a complete medieval town with walls in tact.) I am not sure if it would have made me feel claustrophobic living within walls that can keep me in, or shut me out; but back then people would have had a very real and intense need for this kind of safely, and hopefully a trust of their government that would be something like a child to a parent. If the art and architecture of this medieval city are a gage on the atmosphere of a city, then you could reason the people would not have been feeling trapped, but soaring.

Looking down on Ponte Vecchio and the Arno river

The views are amazing from the Piazzale Michelangelo. Built on one of the highest hills in Florence the grand Piazzale offers views all around. Dedicated to Florence's favoured son, Michelangelo, it was built in the 1800's and has replica statues of the David and others to commemorate Michelangelo's contribution to the art world.

meditating

It's the first day that it feels really hot, at least the first since we have been in Europe. Before heading back down we take refuge in the cool, cool church of San Minioto al Monte. This church is dedicated to St. Minus who was beheaded on the banks of the Arno by the Roman Emperor Diocletian for being a christian - apparently once beheaded he picked up his head and marched up this hill before dying on the spot that the church is built on. Consecration of this church began in the 10th century (there was a humble chapel before it) and the inside has incredible mosaics from the 13th century. It's a cool calming place. The kids are happy to sit on the old wooden benches and meditate for a while, while Randall and I take in the history of the ancient art work. But we must keep moving.

San Minioto al Monte

coming out the door of the San Minioto al Monte Church

To come out of the delicious coolness of the church into the bright light with all of Florence at your feet is quite sensory overload. Florence is spread out like a delicious table cloth of red tiled roofs and gardens. The hills of Tuscany are green in the distance. It's like being in a painting yourself.

Post fruit slushy, the amazing light is so beautiful.

Rape of the Sabine

After trailing around the tombs and crypts of the church we rewards the kids (big and small alike!) with some fruit slushy to keep us cool on our way back down into the city. One last stroll through the old town of Florence. A little shopping - the kids all spent their money on some amazing looking feather pens with calligraphy tips and proper ink - and we walk through the Piazza della Signoria one last time. A last viewing of the the loggia with it's amazing statues, and an early dinner for us. Lasagna, pizza and a cold beer. Mmmm, the perfect ending to our day. We're ready to haul our baggage down the labyrinthine hotel to the waiting taxis and train station.

Piazza della Signoria

one last pet of their favorite statue!

This time we have seats together (courtesy of the mental train italia worker from the night before). I'm still not a big fan of train travel but so far so good.

We get to Milan and have an hours lay over. Bad planning on my part - we arrive at 10pm and everything is closed. So sitting in a cafe having a late night snack with the kiddos to pass the time didn't work out at all. Instead we create a medieval fortress wall using our luggage. (How did we end up with this much luggage? I worked so hard to keep it down!)

Finally the train arrives. Late by half an hour. And the mad rush is on. People start rushing towards the train. Pushing and shoving to get on. Jeeze. Will it really leave without us, or are all these people used to the trains in Africa that do leave while people are still climbing on board. After being told to get into the wrong side of the train we manage to get all bags/kids on board and haul them to our room. We'll say room, although sardine can is more like it. And given Juliet's age is less than five they have not assigned her a bunk. So even though we have a six berth room, there are actually seven people sleeping here. We discover that we are sharing with a very large man from North Africa. The poor man must have been seriously sad when he saw us coming with all our bags and children. What luck on his part to get stuck with us! He was very nice and helped us store our bags in what little room we could manage. I so wish we had a picture, as this is by far the most crammed we have ever spent a night, ever. Bar none. By the time the kids and bags were stowed (Clara and Juliet crammed into a bunk that could only fold down part way due to the suitcase) Randall and I are soaked through in sweat and both a bit grumpy. This is going to be a long, long night. So what are a pair of travelers to do, we pull out the last of the lemoncello and stand in the train hallway and toast to the adventures of travel. Good, bad and sweaty.

Arrivederci beautiful Italy. It's been wonderful.

As the night landscape passes us by sometime in the night we cross into France....