The train rolls into Paris early in the morning. We do the reverse shuffle off the train herding sleepy kids and luggage out of the train station and to the taxi stands. In the infinite wisdom of the railway lines we must disembark our train and change stations to meet up with the train that will take us from Paris to Normandy -the train station is on the opposite side of Paris. So into a taxi van we go.
The city is still waking up, and it seems like a surreal dream. Finally we are on the regional train from Paris to Rouen - the capital of Normandy - final destination for today.
Why Rouen, we keep getting asked?
Because we have some very dear friends who live there. Forty years ago when Randall and his family were doing one of their year long voyages around the world they met the a French family, who were doing the same thing. And with such likeminded people the family friendship has stayed in place through all the years. So, we have come to reconnect with Francoise and Roland and visit their little slice of French countryside in person.
They meet us at the station, and all I can think is how much I must SMELL after all the sweaty trains. I mean I am wearing the same clothes from 24 hours ago. I've carried bags out of hotels, into taxis, on and off trains, slept in them and to add insult to injury my toothpaste is buried god knows where. What a way to make a first impression! But our friends don't bat an eyelid and welcome us with open arms and drive us to their house for a light lunch, which turns out to be a delicious feast. Lucky us to be visiting one of the best chefs in Normandy. All the weight I've lost with the illness' on the earlier part of the trip will certainly be rectified in our three day stay.
Afterwards we get dropped off in a beautiful park near the heart of Rouen, while we wait for our B&B to be ready, and do a brief exploration of this fantastic medieval city. To be honest we are far too shellshocked from our train journey to take in most of it. There is so much to see here, a city that is the burial place of Richard the Lionhearted, saw the burning of Joan of Arc and was passed back and forth between the English and French and Dukes of Normandy for hundreds of years. Too tired today to make much of all this history - but we do make it to the fantastic cathedral.
The Rouen Cathedral is truly magnificent. There was a church built on this site from at least the 4th century AD, although the Viking raids of the 9th century (Rouen straddles the Seine river giving them easy access with their long boats) destroyed most of the buildings in the area.
The cathedral that stands here today is a living testament to gothic architecture. It was started in the 12th century and looms over the town like a dark and airy reminder of the power of church and god. It has been added on to over the centuries, but always keeping with the same flavor of grandeur. In fact it was named the tallest building in the world in the 1870's with the addition of the cast iron spire of the lantern tower. It was partially destroyed in the WWII bombings but was lovingly restored by residents of the town and still stands today, not as a reminder of the past - the entire old city of Rouen is a testament of the cities varied past - but of the religious and communal strength of the city.
Inside it is deliciously cool. A welcome reprieve from the sunny heat of the mid afternoon sun. The ceiling is so high above us you can't help but look up, and looking up is good for the soul! The kids and I go on a hunt to find the tomb of Richard the Lionhearted who's heart is buried here amongst the countless other tombs of crusaders, kings and notables. Eventually we find his tomb, no great distinction from the other ones around him, simply a crusader who died after a wound from a cross bow became septic; not a way I'd want to die, but back then it was pretty common. He ruled England, Normandy, Aquitaine (courtesy of his famous mother Eleanor) and various other lands for a mere ten years, but still lives on in legends.
The kids take a rest, pretending to be knights of the third crusades while I marvel at the huge organs of the cathedral. I would so love to hear these played! Imagine the acoustics in this giant shell of stone. I can only imagine that it would be awe inspiring!
Back outside we finally check in to our little B&B (which is just around the corner from our friends) and are delighted by the surprise find! Le Chambre Avec Vue - an apt name for this delightful gem of a B&B! Despite the fact that we have to climb three flights of creaky wooden stairs we have the entire top floor to ourselves - three bed rooms, two bathrooms and a view over the gardens to the entire old city below. A dream come true!
After a shower (oh yes, a blessed shower!!) we walk back to our friends house for an evening of divine food and laughter and comfort. Bonjour France, what a way to welcome us!
Our friends have offered to take us on a tour of local Normandy tomorrow. I can't wait to dive into a new place and history. As we walk back through the twilight streets of ancient Normandy a wonderful feeling of peace comes over me. The family is happy, we are surrounded by friends and good food. Love is abundant. Bring on tomorrow, life is good.
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| Rouen Cathedral |
The city is still waking up, and it seems like a surreal dream. Finally we are on the regional train from Paris to Rouen - the capital of Normandy - final destination for today.
Why Rouen, we keep getting asked?
Because we have some very dear friends who live there. Forty years ago when Randall and his family were doing one of their year long voyages around the world they met the a French family, who were doing the same thing. And with such likeminded people the family friendship has stayed in place through all the years. So, we have come to reconnect with Francoise and Roland and visit their little slice of French countryside in person.
 |
| Always the happy traveler! |
The Rouen Cathedral is truly magnificent. There was a church built on this site from at least the 4th century AD, although the Viking raids of the 9th century (Rouen straddles the Seine river giving them easy access with their long boats) destroyed most of the buildings in the area.
The cathedral that stands here today is a living testament to gothic architecture. It was started in the 12th century and looms over the town like a dark and airy reminder of the power of church and god. It has been added on to over the centuries, but always keeping with the same flavor of grandeur. In fact it was named the tallest building in the world in the 1870's with the addition of the cast iron spire of the lantern tower. It was partially destroyed in the WWII bombings but was lovingly restored by residents of the town and still stands today, not as a reminder of the past - the entire old city of Rouen is a testament of the cities varied past - but of the religious and communal strength of the city.
Inside it is deliciously cool. A welcome reprieve from the sunny heat of the mid afternoon sun. The ceiling is so high above us you can't help but look up, and looking up is good for the soul! The kids and I go on a hunt to find the tomb of Richard the Lionhearted who's heart is buried here amongst the countless other tombs of crusaders, kings and notables. Eventually we find his tomb, no great distinction from the other ones around him, simply a crusader who died after a wound from a cross bow became septic; not a way I'd want to die, but back then it was pretty common. He ruled England, Normandy, Aquitaine (courtesy of his famous mother Eleanor) and various other lands for a mere ten years, but still lives on in legends.
 |
| Knights of the Crusades |
Back outside we finally check in to our little B&B (which is just around the corner from our friends) and are delighted by the surprise find! Le Chambre Avec Vue - an apt name for this delightful gem of a B&B! Despite the fact that we have to climb three flights of creaky wooden stairs we have the entire top floor to ourselves - three bed rooms, two bathrooms and a view over the gardens to the entire old city below. A dream come true!
After a shower (oh yes, a blessed shower!!) we walk back to our friends house for an evening of divine food and laughter and comfort. Bonjour France, what a way to welcome us!
 |
| Le Chambre Avec Vue |
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