Of Stairs, More Stairs and Water Buffalo

Breakfast of Tibetan Bread and Eggs

Day Two of the Annapurna Trek - Up Up and Away

This morning we are introduced to Tibetan bread for breakfast. Deep fried and puffy. The Himalayas answer to donuts. Combined with fried eggs and milk tea we are ready for the climb. The weather is cool and delicious after the rain, perfect for hiking.

Our Porters loading up our bags.

With the porters loading up it's time to climb further into the mountains. The directions are simple - out our front door, turn right and continue up the stone path along the steep cliffs above the river. It's nine in the morning but the valley is still deep in the shadows. The river rushes ever faster below us. On very regular intervals we come across little tea shops and guest houses. Many owned by retired English army men.

Wait, what? English army? The only faces that I've seen have been Nepali. A little bit of investigation is needed.

Indeed they are Nepali men who join a particular Brigade of the British Army - the Brigade of Gurkha's - and their alliance goes back to 1815! When the British couldn't subdue the tough fighting men of the Himalayas they instead started recruited them to fight for the British instead! Sensible.

The British usually select from one of four ethnic groups for the Gurkha Brigade, and we are trekking through Gurung country, one of those four people! Known for their bravery and toughness it is a real honor for one of these families to get a son selected, even if it means they will be living overseas for years, not only do they get enormous respect, but also the pay is astronomical compared to what they would make as farmers. And when they have served their time they can retire back to their homeland.

So that is why there are tea houses owned by English army men, who are also Nepali. Question answered. And another reminder that the world has been global for much longer than most of us realize.

The cool shadows soon start giving way to hot sunshine and pretty soon we cross a couple of swinging metal mesh bridges and the real ascent starts. Stairs, endless stairs! Stone stairs of all different sizes. Some with wild mint plants poking out of them. Some covered with mud. Some shiny with all the feet traveling over them. Some covered in donkey poo from the endless donkey teams that go up and down these trails delivering goods.

The kids have been briefed on the donkeys - when you hear donkey bells you immediately get to the inside of the trail to be sure you don't get knocked off the mountain. Unfortunately during our first donkey train Liam, acting with zeal, flings himself into the stinging nettles beside the road. Bummer. Luckily his clothes contain the rash to just his arms. Note to self, stay away from the plants. 

Lucky for Liam, Durga has some local leaves to rub onto to help with the sting. So onward we keep hiking. The kids race up ahead and leave me behind with Randall, who is suffering from a bout of Buddhas revenge. Note - if you ever come to Nepal, suck it up and eat vegetarian. It's just not worth the bad chicken experience!

"See the mountain peaks behind me?" !!

The stairs go on forever. But the view starts to reveal not just the breathtaking valley below, but little glimpses of the huge peaks behind. The top of Annapurna South peaks up and over the "hill" that we are ascending giving us the motivation to keep going.

We hike. We rest. We admire the view. We hike. The kids for the most part all scamper up ahead of us with the porters. At times each one falls back to spend some time with us then moves on. Juliet starts having difficulty after a few hours. And no wonder. Those little legs are taking twice as many steps as us big people!

After three hours we finally reach the top of the "steep" stairs. Congratulations we've just climbed 3,600 stairs! Oooooooo, let's go up some more. 

Go Juliet, Go!

Our first glimpse of Annapurna

And yes, there are more stairs, but they are not so steep and we can take the time to look around and enjoy the view now that we've done the hard bit. We are getting up into the higher country now and we meander through little hilltop towns, with the traditional wood and earth structures and neatly piled fire wood. It's a mixture of Hindu and Buddist in this region and many houses have prayer flags flapping merrily in the breeze. The cows are gone, and replaced by goats and many Water Buffaloes. Although they are very large, they are quite docile and watch us with their big brown eyes as we pass. Well, except for the one female that took a shine to my hubby and blocked his way on the path, giving him a little love tap when he eventually walked past.

Looking way down to the hidden valley where we started this morning it is starting to feel like we are on top of the world. Just wait, says our guide.

Finally we reach tonight's tea house, just in time for a lunch of Dal Bhat. Time to rest our weary legs. Many people would continue on another four or five hours today if they were in a hurry, but we are going to call halt for the day and let the kids rest up, and not overdo it.

Again the Tea House is perched on the side of a cliff, looking across the valley. There is a large table outside that we camp out at. Our rooms are solid and even have a western toilet attached! The luxury!

What has the Easter Yeti brought?

Mars bars in the woodpile...

We are here!

Today is Easter Sunday - and I was organized enough to have brought some chocolate for the occasion, even if it was completely flattened in the suitcase! So while the kids wait in their rooms Fionna and I hide the chocolate around the rock walls and wood piles that are behind our tea house. What fun the kids have looking for what the Easter Yeti hid for them. 

The view from our Tea House patio... and yes, that is a very, very long drop behind them!

We spend the majority of the afternoon playing bananagrams and enjoying some ginger tea in this amazing location, but as soon as the sun dips behind the mountain the air temperature dips dramatically. Tonight is going to be a whole lot colder than before! In the room I layer up with about seven layers, only to find out that dinner is being served in the tiny little dining room where they have lit the wood burning fire. Off comes just about every layer as it is sweltering! Dinner is simple but good, instead of Dal Bhat I try the potatoes - and by seven thirty everyone is in bed!

As usual I seem to be the last awake, so I am sitting on our tiny little porch watching the night. The sky is so beautiful and starry, like you can reach up and touch each one of them. The presence of the mountains looms just ahead. What will tomorrows altitude bring us?

This Tea House is literally perched on the side of the cliff. Great for bird watching!