Downhill to Gandruk!

Nepal Adventure - Day 8 - Annapurna Trail Tadapani to Gandruk - DOWNHILL!

Heidi, wake up!

I'm awake, I'm awake. Randall and I struggle out of our sleeping bags and stumble out onto the communal balcony. Oh wow! Right there in all their glory, bathed in the pre-dawn light is Annapurna South and Machhapuchre (Fish Tail Mountain).

Much as I hate getting woken up, I'm very thankful Fionna pounded on my door! What a view. It's different from Poon Hill, not an all encompassing sweeping view, but more of an in-your-face tall mountains. As we sit on our railing, drinking hot milk tea and watching the rays of the sun come over Fish Tail Mountain I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be.

Goodmorning Tadapani and the Annapurna Mountains!

After the gruelling hike yesterday it's nice to have a slow day today. I must confess to some sore muscles! A whole pot of tea on the balcony, a slow breakfast and some yoga before packing up is just the call. Juliet, who was our super hiker yesterday, sleeps fourteen hours and doesn't wake up until halfway through breakfast. Guess I'm not the only one who is feeling the previous day's hike!

Sunrise over Machhapuchare or Fish Tail Mountain, 6,993 meters high

In the tea house in Tadapani - Juliet gets fussed over by the Inn Keeper

We have to leave this view???

Eventually we must set off though. Another day on the trail ahead, but lucky for us, it's mainly downhill!

At the leisurely hour of nine thirty off we say goodbye to Tadapani and hear off down the trail. It's a beautiful trek, through forests with small waterfalls and groves of moss covered banks. In the forests old ladies are gathering firewood and every once and a while we disturb a grazing water buffalo. It seems almost normal to be next to these beasts now. The downhill takes us about two and a half hours and suddenly we are in Gandruk, the chief town of the Gorung people.

Disturbing the locals

Arriving in Gandruk

As we found in the little towns at the beginning of our Annapurna adventure, the long reach of the British Empire and their elite Gurka regiments  - taken from these Gorung villages - leaves a wealthy legacy for the people here. The slate roofs are tidy, and although most floors are dirt they are well kept with pride. Most houses have flowers planted around in addition to the crops.

We lunch at our tea house for the day where I order a grilled cheese sandwich for a change from the Dal Bhat. Surprise, it's made with Yak cheese and the flavour is a bit too intense for me to stomach.

The trail up that valley leads to Annapurna Base Camp, but it is hidden in thunderstorms today!

After lunch Randall braves the hard bed in our earthen floored room, all this trekking has been rough on his back. Meanwhile the kids and I follow Durga and Fiona into the town in search of a "German" bakery. The town is noticeably well off compared to the other towns that we have been through, and sure enough there is a bakery to be found where the kids devour a piece of chocolate cake and I have my afternoon milk tea. There is a TV in the corner playing the Nepali version of MTV and the kids crack up at the videos. Most songs are mainstream music from America and Britain, but mixed in is a bit of Bollywood. None have the Western Videos attached though, copyright issues would be my guess. Some, like Katy Perry just showed bouncing balloons with the written out lyrics - karaoke style - while others have stand in singers lips sinking the tunes. I couldn't help but notice that the "singers" were all Chinese. Yes, the Nepali TV, accurately reflecting it's position squashed between India and China.

In Gandruk, waiting for the Donkey trains to pass.

We had every intention of exploring the town further when suddenly the heavens exploded. Coming down the valleys from the mountain peaks was a good, loud thunder storm and we beat a hasty retreat to our tea house before the storm hit fully. Huge rain drops chase us back up the hill to the tea house. We got back just in time before it unleashed all it's fury. As quick as it came, so it passed, leaving us to the view again.

Running back to our tea house being chased by the rain! Amazing lighting!

The tea house we are staying at today has something we haven't seen much of in the last few days - flat lawn! It doesn't take long after the storm for the kids to make friends with the proprietors children and soon they have a soccer game up and running, using an empty plastic water bottle. The porters get involved and soon it's all on. At least with the plastic bottle they avoid having to run down the steep embankment too many times.

Juliet and I spend some time in the dining hall playing bananagrams with our friends. The little dude of the house, a small boy of about two, has never seen a little white girl before and becomes absolutely obsessed with Juliet and follows her everywhere. And when she doesn't give him attention he does everything from pitch a tanty to hit her over the head with a bat to get her attention. Ah, first love.

Juliet's new Nepali friend - he had eyes only for her!

At dinner we find out that it's Durga's bday. Out comes the Nepali drums and soon everyone is singing and dancing. We've only known this family for a week, but after trekking at high altitude and living together in such basic accommodations the friendship has progress far more than just as guides or guests. The night is filled with music and laughter.

The only dampener was when I went to brush my teeth at the outdoor sink and found myself face to face with a spider the size of my hand. Those who know me would be extremely proud, the spider and I made eye contact while I slowly backed away and we both lived to see another day. Needless to say when I returned back into our room I woke everyone up by sliding my bed frame away from the earthen walls giving me a small sense of security from a late night visit from the hairy beast who watched me clean my teeth...

Tomorrow we finish up the hike and head back to Westernised Pokhara. I am feeling a bit disturbed that this part of our trip is over already. It has been one of the highlights of my life. With tired muscles and a peaceful soul it's time to sleep one last night in the shadow of the silent giants, the Annapurna range....

Namaste

Of Stairs, More Stairs and Water Buffalo

Breakfast of Tibetan Bread and Eggs

Day Two of the Annapurna Trek - Up Up and Away

This morning we are introduced to Tibetan bread for breakfast. Deep fried and puffy. The Himalayas answer to donuts. Combined with fried eggs and milk tea we are ready for the climb. The weather is cool and delicious after the rain, perfect for hiking.

Our Porters loading up our bags.

With the porters loading up it's time to climb further into the mountains. The directions are simple - out our front door, turn right and continue up the stone path along the steep cliffs above the river. It's nine in the morning but the valley is still deep in the shadows. The river rushes ever faster below us. On very regular intervals we come across little tea shops and guest houses. Many owned by retired English army men.

Wait, what? English army? The only faces that I've seen have been Nepali. A little bit of investigation is needed.

Indeed they are Nepali men who join a particular Brigade of the British Army - the Brigade of Gurkha's - and their alliance goes back to 1815! When the British couldn't subdue the tough fighting men of the Himalayas they instead started recruited them to fight for the British instead! Sensible.

The British usually select from one of four ethnic groups for the Gurkha Brigade, and we are trekking through Gurung country, one of those four people! Known for their bravery and toughness it is a real honor for one of these families to get a son selected, even if it means they will be living overseas for years, not only do they get enormous respect, but also the pay is astronomical compared to what they would make as farmers. And when they have served their time they can retire back to their homeland.

So that is why there are tea houses owned by English army men, who are also Nepali. Question answered. And another reminder that the world has been global for much longer than most of us realize.

The cool shadows soon start giving way to hot sunshine and pretty soon we cross a couple of swinging metal mesh bridges and the real ascent starts. Stairs, endless stairs! Stone stairs of all different sizes. Some with wild mint plants poking out of them. Some covered with mud. Some shiny with all the feet traveling over them. Some covered in donkey poo from the endless donkey teams that go up and down these trails delivering goods.

The kids have been briefed on the donkeys - when you hear donkey bells you immediately get to the inside of the trail to be sure you don't get knocked off the mountain. Unfortunately during our first donkey train Liam, acting with zeal, flings himself into the stinging nettles beside the road. Bummer. Luckily his clothes contain the rash to just his arms. Note to self, stay away from the plants. 

Lucky for Liam, Durga has some local leaves to rub onto to help with the sting. So onward we keep hiking. The kids race up ahead and leave me behind with Randall, who is suffering from a bout of Buddhas revenge. Note - if you ever come to Nepal, suck it up and eat vegetarian. It's just not worth the bad chicken experience!

"See the mountain peaks behind me?" !!

The stairs go on forever. But the view starts to reveal not just the breathtaking valley below, but little glimpses of the huge peaks behind. The top of Annapurna South peaks up and over the "hill" that we are ascending giving us the motivation to keep going.

We hike. We rest. We admire the view. We hike. The kids for the most part all scamper up ahead of us with the porters. At times each one falls back to spend some time with us then moves on. Juliet starts having difficulty after a few hours. And no wonder. Those little legs are taking twice as many steps as us big people!

After three hours we finally reach the top of the "steep" stairs. Congratulations we've just climbed 3,600 stairs! Oooooooo, let's go up some more. 

Go Juliet, Go!

Our first glimpse of Annapurna

And yes, there are more stairs, but they are not so steep and we can take the time to look around and enjoy the view now that we've done the hard bit. We are getting up into the higher country now and we meander through little hilltop towns, with the traditional wood and earth structures and neatly piled fire wood. It's a mixture of Hindu and Buddist in this region and many houses have prayer flags flapping merrily in the breeze. The cows are gone, and replaced by goats and many Water Buffaloes. Although they are very large, they are quite docile and watch us with their big brown eyes as we pass. Well, except for the one female that took a shine to my hubby and blocked his way on the path, giving him a little love tap when he eventually walked past.

Looking way down to the hidden valley where we started this morning it is starting to feel like we are on top of the world. Just wait, says our guide.

Finally we reach tonight's tea house, just in time for a lunch of Dal Bhat. Time to rest our weary legs. Many people would continue on another four or five hours today if they were in a hurry, but we are going to call halt for the day and let the kids rest up, and not overdo it.

Again the Tea House is perched on the side of a cliff, looking across the valley. There is a large table outside that we camp out at. Our rooms are solid and even have a western toilet attached! The luxury!

What has the Easter Yeti brought?

Mars bars in the woodpile...

We are here!

Today is Easter Sunday - and I was organized enough to have brought some chocolate for the occasion, even if it was completely flattened in the suitcase! So while the kids wait in their rooms Fionna and I hide the chocolate around the rock walls and wood piles that are behind our tea house. What fun the kids have looking for what the Easter Yeti hid for them. 

The view from our Tea House patio... and yes, that is a very, very long drop behind them!

We spend the majority of the afternoon playing bananagrams and enjoying some ginger tea in this amazing location, but as soon as the sun dips behind the mountain the air temperature dips dramatically. Tonight is going to be a whole lot colder than before! In the room I layer up with about seven layers, only to find out that dinner is being served in the tiny little dining room where they have lit the wood burning fire. Off comes just about every layer as it is sweltering! Dinner is simple but good, instead of Dal Bhat I try the potatoes - and by seven thirty everyone is in bed!

As usual I seem to be the last awake, so I am sitting on our tiny little porch watching the night. The sky is so beautiful and starry, like you can reach up and touch each one of them. The presence of the mountains looms just ahead. What will tomorrows altitude bring us?

This Tea House is literally perched on the side of the cliff. Great for bird watching!