Ghorepani - Hiking galore and thank god for ladybugs!

Nepal - Day Six - Up to Ghorepani, elevation 2,800 meters

Brrr, it was cold last night. I had to get up in the night and put on my down jacket and wool hat before bundling back into my sleeping bag. It could have to do with the fact that I was sleeping in the corner of the room between two windows. I think more wind came in than was kept out! Ah well, it's all part of the adventure, at least there was glass on the windows! And that pesky wind last night blew away all the clouds giving us a stunning morning view of the mountain peaks.

Breakfast.

Again, it's Tibetan bread, fried eggs and milk tea for breakfast on our little patio that seems to be perched on the edge of the canyon. Annapurna South and Machapuchare peek out from behind the hills beckoning us onward, and upward.

Ready to go! Machapuchare peaks out from behind the "hill" we still need to climb.

Soon we are off trekking. and we are so pleased that today is not a marathon step day. There are parts of my leg that have never been sore before. I blame it on the uneven incline of the steps! Today even though we will be trekking up nearly 500 meters the trail is at less of an incline, and in the morning it's mainly cool and shaded with tall rhododendron trees and clear running streams. The kids seem to have recovered from yesterday's hike and are off way ahead of us. Randall is feeling better as well and that's a relief! High altitude is not something you want to mix with any other illness!!!

Local house, the family lives on top with the firewood and animals below.

The thing that you notice about the Annapurna trek is that you are never alone. And not just other trekkers (of whom we really haven't seen too many of so far.) But the land is not pristine wilderness by any stretch of the imagination. People have lived and worked here for millennium and the animals and land and people are comfortably established in a routine together. The land is terraced for the potatoes, rice, beans, cabbage, spinach and corn that are the staple foods here. Outside the people's houses (or sometimes underneath them) are shelters for water buffalo, goats and donkeys.

The shadows of the valley still have a snow laden nip to them as we hike, those mountains are getting closer with every step. The terraces get less and less as we climb higher. But still there are many tiny villages scattered along the trail. We take a few moments at a lovely waterfall along the trail to rest and skip stones. I pull out a package of beef jerky that I've brought from home and share it around. Only afterwards did I realize that I shared some with our Porter's son. He's a Hindu and I feel horrible. (Cows are sacred to them.) I spent the next hour debating the ethics of what to do. It's a hard thing to leave all of your own culture behind you when traveling through a foreign culture, and even the most well meaning of us can be insensitive at best. I never did say anything to him as I'm sure he had no idea what I'd given him.

Waterfall stop

At one of the many little villages we passed through - dog exhausted from barking all night, no doubt.

At the next little village we stop for everyone's new favorite beverage - lemon and ginger tea. Technically it's just lemon juice and boiling water and grated ginger in boiling water, but the kids love it, we love it and it is a simple way to keep hydrating. One of the biggest problems that get hikers into trouble, especially at higher elevations, is dehydration. Luckily the kids all take to this tea ritual with gusto so we've not encountered a problem yet.

But onwards we go. After this mornings teasing views of the higher peaks we are all keen to get up to Gohrepani, tonight's village, where the mountain views go from teasing to spectacular. But as the day goes on the hiking gets tougher. With every hill we are getting higher in elevation, and everyone starts to feel it. Randall and the big kids go ahead with the porters, who are completely used to this. While Durga and I stay behind with the little ones.

Liam gives the porters a hand...

Clara hits the wall and after a few touch and go moments of potential tantrums saves herself with singing. We get to hear every Taylor Swift song ever written, and then some! With the big kids and Randall all well ahead of us her concert is just for Durga, me and Juliet.... and every other living being within earshot. Her singing teacher would be proud.

As we hit the final set of stairs, the altitude starts to really starts to affect us and the breathing is certainly a lot harder.  Which, of course, is the cue for Juliet to hit the wall.

Luckily she is saved by the discovery of lady bugs. And I mean hordes of lady bugs, everywhere! I'm not sure if it was ladybug breeding season, or a little gift from the hiking fairy, but the little red bugs keep her brain occupied and we name the stairs "lady bug staircase". The only crisis now is when I step on one of the unsuspecting bugs and send it to ladybug heaven. My karma is taking a beating today.

Selfie with the mountains... post lady bug stair.

And that last push of stairs lands us in Ghorepani, our destination for the night. It's a much bigger town than the last few days and even has a few little stores etc. Our tea house is at the very top of the village and we all pretty much collapse when we get there! Randall and the big kids are all splayed out in the sun waiting for us. We are at 2,800 meters in elevation and even though the sun is warm, the wind is straight from the snow. The high is probably about 7 degrees so once we stop moving it's time to locate the warmer clothes!

We made it to our lodge in Ghorepani

Once our breath comes back it quickly gets taken away again by the view. Looking back behind us the great majestic peak of Annapurna South is rising up out of a fur coat of clouds. It's hard to put into words just how tall this mountain is. Just when you think you are looking at the clouds above it you realize there is another craggy peak above even the clouds.

The wind is cold with the feeling of snow and glaciers. And as the sun dips even a little bit, it's time to move inside. 

After a late lunch we sort the rooms  at the Tea House - Three rooms with ensuites!! We have a bright pink western toilet in ours, unfortunately it's plumbed to flush into the shower, but it's a luxury none the less.

As soon as we get our bags stowed we head back down the stairs into the village to visit the local cake store. Yes, cake store. And nothing tastes better than the chocolate cake and milk tea after such a long day on the trail.

Soon the sugar hits and the kids all spill out into the main square and start racing ladybugs to the top of the village stuppa.

Ghorepani town square and the favorite Stupa for Ladybug racing

The View from our Tea House

Dinner is warm and cozy inside the lodge. They have a giant wood burning fire in the middle of the common room and it creates a festive like atmosphere with everyone eating there tonight. Besides us, and our group of porters, there are two other groups staying here. Probably 25 people in all. But despite the fun atmosphere it's early to bed. Not only are we tired from the trekking and the altitude - tomorrow we are up the crack of dark!

4 am is when my alarm is set for. Tomorrow will be an adventure.

So, with the sound of the local rabid dog barking somewhere down the valley in the village, and the wind howling and creaking through the tea house, I am laying here trying to go to sleep.

5,000 meters above me the Annapurna mountains silently stand guard.