Downhill to Gandruk!

Nepal Adventure - Day 8 - Annapurna Trail Tadapani to Gandruk - DOWNHILL!

Heidi, wake up!

I'm awake, I'm awake. Randall and I struggle out of our sleeping bags and stumble out onto the communal balcony. Oh wow! Right there in all their glory, bathed in the pre-dawn light is Annapurna South and Machhapuchre (Fish Tail Mountain).

Much as I hate getting woken up, I'm very thankful Fionna pounded on my door! What a view. It's different from Poon Hill, not an all encompassing sweeping view, but more of an in-your-face tall mountains. As we sit on our railing, drinking hot milk tea and watching the rays of the sun come over Fish Tail Mountain I can't think of anywhere else I'd rather be.

Goodmorning Tadapani and the Annapurna Mountains!

After the gruelling hike yesterday it's nice to have a slow day today. I must confess to some sore muscles! A whole pot of tea on the balcony, a slow breakfast and some yoga before packing up is just the call. Juliet, who was our super hiker yesterday, sleeps fourteen hours and doesn't wake up until halfway through breakfast. Guess I'm not the only one who is feeling the previous day's hike!

Sunrise over Machhapuchare or Fish Tail Mountain, 6,993 meters high

In the tea house in Tadapani - Juliet gets fussed over by the Inn Keeper

We have to leave this view???

Eventually we must set off though. Another day on the trail ahead, but lucky for us, it's mainly downhill!

At the leisurely hour of nine thirty off we say goodbye to Tadapani and hear off down the trail. It's a beautiful trek, through forests with small waterfalls and groves of moss covered banks. In the forests old ladies are gathering firewood and every once and a while we disturb a grazing water buffalo. It seems almost normal to be next to these beasts now. The downhill takes us about two and a half hours and suddenly we are in Gandruk, the chief town of the Gorung people.

Disturbing the locals

Arriving in Gandruk

As we found in the little towns at the beginning of our Annapurna adventure, the long reach of the British Empire and their elite Gurka regiments  - taken from these Gorung villages - leaves a wealthy legacy for the people here. The slate roofs are tidy, and although most floors are dirt they are well kept with pride. Most houses have flowers planted around in addition to the crops.

We lunch at our tea house for the day where I order a grilled cheese sandwich for a change from the Dal Bhat. Surprise, it's made with Yak cheese and the flavour is a bit too intense for me to stomach.

The trail up that valley leads to Annapurna Base Camp, but it is hidden in thunderstorms today!

After lunch Randall braves the hard bed in our earthen floored room, all this trekking has been rough on his back. Meanwhile the kids and I follow Durga and Fiona into the town in search of a "German" bakery. The town is noticeably well off compared to the other towns that we have been through, and sure enough there is a bakery to be found where the kids devour a piece of chocolate cake and I have my afternoon milk tea. There is a TV in the corner playing the Nepali version of MTV and the kids crack up at the videos. Most songs are mainstream music from America and Britain, but mixed in is a bit of Bollywood. None have the Western Videos attached though, copyright issues would be my guess. Some, like Katy Perry just showed bouncing balloons with the written out lyrics - karaoke style - while others have stand in singers lips sinking the tunes. I couldn't help but notice that the "singers" were all Chinese. Yes, the Nepali TV, accurately reflecting it's position squashed between India and China.

In Gandruk, waiting for the Donkey trains to pass.

We had every intention of exploring the town further when suddenly the heavens exploded. Coming down the valleys from the mountain peaks was a good, loud thunder storm and we beat a hasty retreat to our tea house before the storm hit fully. Huge rain drops chase us back up the hill to the tea house. We got back just in time before it unleashed all it's fury. As quick as it came, so it passed, leaving us to the view again.

Running back to our tea house being chased by the rain! Amazing lighting!

The tea house we are staying at today has something we haven't seen much of in the last few days - flat lawn! It doesn't take long after the storm for the kids to make friends with the proprietors children and soon they have a soccer game up and running, using an empty plastic water bottle. The porters get involved and soon it's all on. At least with the plastic bottle they avoid having to run down the steep embankment too many times.

Juliet and I spend some time in the dining hall playing bananagrams with our friends. The little dude of the house, a small boy of about two, has never seen a little white girl before and becomes absolutely obsessed with Juliet and follows her everywhere. And when she doesn't give him attention he does everything from pitch a tanty to hit her over the head with a bat to get her attention. Ah, first love.

Juliet's new Nepali friend - he had eyes only for her!

At dinner we find out that it's Durga's bday. Out comes the Nepali drums and soon everyone is singing and dancing. We've only known this family for a week, but after trekking at high altitude and living together in such basic accommodations the friendship has progress far more than just as guides or guests. The night is filled with music and laughter.

The only dampener was when I went to brush my teeth at the outdoor sink and found myself face to face with a spider the size of my hand. Those who know me would be extremely proud, the spider and I made eye contact while I slowly backed away and we both lived to see another day. Needless to say when I returned back into our room I woke everyone up by sliding my bed frame away from the earthen walls giving me a small sense of security from a late night visit from the hairy beast who watched me clean my teeth...

Tomorrow we finish up the hike and head back to Westernised Pokhara. I am feeling a bit disturbed that this part of our trip is over already. It has been one of the highlights of my life. With tired muscles and a peaceful soul it's time to sleep one last night in the shadow of the silent giants, the Annapurna range....

Namaste